Visiting the Lake District is always a joy. Its vast open spaces and mountain views as far as the eye can see are among Britain’s best-loved treasures.
And while Windermere and Ambleside are household names, a Rail Discoveries Lakes and Dales by Steam trip allowed me to explore a lesser-known part of Cumbria, with a visit to Yorkshire thrown in.
The itinerary took in Muncaster, the Ravenglass & Eskdale Railway and the world-famous Settle to Carlisle line.
The Hallmark Hotel, originally built for Queen Victoria in 1853, made for the perfect base, being less than a minute’s walk from Carlisle train station.
Breakfast and evening meals – a varied three-course menu – are included and the hotel has a comfortable bar in which to relax, and staff who are friendly and helpful.
Our first port of call was Muncaster Castle. Dating back to medieval times, it has been rebuilt and extended many times and its historical significance as a point of defence is obvious. Set in more than 70 acres of gardens and woodlands, Muncaster is impressive outside and in, particularly the circular library with its secret door and gallery.
Muncaster also houses a hawk and owl centre. Its daily shows are both educational and entertaining. I caught the morning owl demonstration which features up to seven species. An expert explained the different natural behaviours of a variety of birds including burrowing owls (named Linford and Christie!) and massive eagle owls.
Next stop was the Ravenglass & Eskdale Steam Railway, one of the oldest and longest narrow gauge railways in England. Ravenglass, the only coastal village in the Lake District National Park, is at one end of the line that finishes seven miles away in Dalegarth, more than 200 ft above sea level and surrounded by rolling fields and mountains.
The route was originally used for moving ore from the local mines. In modern times it has transformed itself into both an educational centre and a tourist destination.
In line with most heritage railways in the United Kingdom, Ravenglass & Eskdale would be nowhere without its volunteers and it’s always fascinating to talk to the people who give their time so generously, from the part-time workers in the shops and cafés to the drivers and engineers who keep the steam engines running.
Travelling in an open carriage behind a steam engine pulling you through Eskdale Valley is great fun and an excellent way to see the surrounding countryside and waterways, including the everpresent Herdwick sheep, their white faces staring dolefully at you pass by.
The railway is both pet and childfriendly, and Dalegarth Station is a great place to stop and have a cup of tea while taking in the stunning mountain views.
There’s also time to visit the Ravenglass museum which examines, in detail, the history of La’al Ratty (little railway) as the line is known locally.
It is very interactive and has plenty to entertain the children. Taking in both the Yorkshire Dales and the North Pennines, the Settle to Carlisle line is 73 miles long and beloved by rail enthusiasts across the country. Threatened with closure in the 1980s, it was saved thanks to a campaign set up by rail groups, local authorities and residents.
Many beautiful restored stations sit along the line, in addition to tunnels and viaducts, one of which is Ribblehead, a Grade-II listed structure and the third tallest on the line.
While it’s difficult to appreciate the sheer scale of the viaduct from onboard, it is possible, in places, to see its curve as the train picks its way across the countryside. Whenever possible, on the return journey to Carlisle, a volunteer from the local railway group joins the trip, and we were lucky enough to be joined by Mark Rand.
Mark and his wife Pat are responsible for the stunning restoration project that brought the Water Tower at Settle Station back to its former glory. A labour of love over many years, the result of their dedication and passion is clear to see as you leave the station and head into the town.
Settle itself is a charming little town with classic Yorkshire Dale stone walls and houses set in pretty winding streets. It is also home to the smallest art gallery I’ve ever visited. Located inside a discarded public telephone box, Gallery On The Green is a community project that has been running since 2009. Inside I was treated to a celebration of nature, a tree fashioned from willow branches festooned with paper birds.
This was a fantastic trip, a great mix of steam trains, railway history and stunning Lake District countryside. From Carlisle in the North of the Lake District south to Settle in the Yorkshire Dales, it lets you explore the beauty and diversity of the area.
If you’re planning a trip to the Lakes and Dales, you really shouldn’t Settle for less.
