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Manchester Evening News
Manchester Evening News
Entertainment
Emily Heward

"Red cabbage braised with so much festive spicing it tastes a bit like chowing down on a Christmas Yankee Candle" - Marple Bridge pub The Norfolk Arms' Sunday roast, reviewed

Nestled at the bottom of a valley, on the banks of the River Goyt, The Norfolk Arms is the quintessential village pub.

Open wood fires waft their smoky scent out of the stained glass windows to the cobbled beer garden outside the stone-built pub in Marple Bridge.

Inside, oak beams twinkle with fairy lights, and stag heads are mounted on the walls above chunky, country kitchen-style tables and chairs.

It's a popular spot with walkers, and dog-friendly: the cosy corner where we find a seat appears to be hosting an impromptu spaniel convention, and that's just fine by me.

(Manchester Evening News)

What's cooking?

There's a choice of four roasts, and the pork belly is the undisputed winner here, with a crackling so crunchy it's audible from across the table.

The lamb is a close second, a shoulder cut slow-cooked until it surrenders to the rich, minted gravy around it. The topside of beef would be better served rarer.

The lamb Sunday roast at the Norfolk Arms in Marple Bridge (Manchester Evening News)

The vegetarian option is a cheese and herb patty with sun-dried tomatoes and onions - presumably the same one used in the veggie burger. A cop-out? The veggie in our midst doesn't think so; she's just thrilled not to be eating another nut roast.

The full food menu is also available on Sundays, which includes a range of Pieminister pies and freshly-cooked pub grub staples like fish and chips and bangers and mash.

Show me the trimmings

All the roasts come with crispy Yorkshires, sage and onion stuffing and plenty of veg including creamed leeks, honey and mustard glazed carrots and a mound of red cabbage braised with so much festive spicing it tastes a bit like chowing down on a Christmas Yankee Candle. Albeit a delicious one.

The beef Sunday roast (Manchester Evening News)

A bit of greenery on the plate wouldn't go amiss, though, and the spuds used for the roasties are too waxy to hit that fluffy/crunchy sweet spot.

Can I get a decent pint?

You only need to tilt your gaze to the ceiling for proof of that. Every square inch above the bar is covered with pump clips from breweries including Manchester's Blackjack, Macclesfield's Red Willow and Sheffield's Kelham Island. Even the sinks in the toilets have keg taps.

(Manchester Evening News)

The well-kept cask ale selection includes Salford's Se7en Brothers when we visit and there's some local flavour courtesy of Shindigger on keg too, alongside a range of European lagers such as Budvar and Birra Morena.

Are you being served?

It's an order-at-the-bar affair and service at the point of ordering is efficient. It's a little less so when it comes to getting the food out: service is well-meaning but slightly slow from a young and enthusiastic floor team who appear to be up against it on a busy Sunday shift.

Should I save room for pudding?

Hmm. I'd hesitate to recommend the crumble, which is nothing of the sort. All the components are here, but supersized and stuffed in a tiny bucket: the topping is more smashed up cookie than crumb, piled like broken paving slabs on top of big wedges of apple.

Norfolk Arms, Marple Bridge (Manchester Evening News)

You'd be better saving stomach space for the fudgy chocolate brownie and silky chocolate torte.

(Manchester Evening News)

What's the damage?

With a healthy appetite, a bit of a thirst and a collective hangover to quash, four of us work up a bill totalling £102.40. All the roasts - including the veggie version - weigh in at £11.95 apiece.

The verdict

It's a hearty, serviceable roast, the sort you'd be happy to find yourself in front of at the end of a long walk along Marple's canals and surrounding countryside - but not one I'd otherwise go out of my way for.

It's an amiable place to spend a Sunday though, and a good all-rounder of a pub. Come here for the beer (they have a festival in summer), for the live music (every Thursday) and the atmosphere. The food is incidental.

Norfolk Arms, Marple Bridge (Manchester Evening News)
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