Reading the business pages, it would be easy to conclude that it’s shaky times at Ralph Lauren, with sales down 11% in North America in the first quarter of 2016, 8% of its workforce cut this year and 50 stores closing. There was somewhat of a different impression on Wednesday evening at New York fashion week.
Lauren still has the clout to close a block of the Upper East Side’s Madison Avenue to stage not one but two fashion shows in a temporary structure erected outside the brand’s flagship store.
The concept behind the show was equally confident. With See Now Buy Now in full effect in New York, the game is to see how it can do it bigger, better and bolder. At Lauren’s show, everything seen could be bought immediately. The designer’s show notes on the seats elaborated: “Today I am proud to share with you, for the first time ever, my new women’s collection right off the runway and into your lives.”
Accordingly, the show began with two suited young men unlocking the store doors. Each model then walked out on to the catwalk. The sound of tills ringing was almost audible. The collection was themed around a Lauren classic - the American west. Most models wore Stetsons and fringing, while cowboy leathers and ponchos were present and correct.
It was all targeted at the women in the surrounding area. The Upper East Side is the heartland of the very wealthiest Lauren customer – the woman who will buy these clothes. She’ll be wearing dryclean-only ivory coats, intricately crocheted dresses and wide-legged, swishy trousers. The series of brightly coloured beaded gowns at the end of the show will no doubt turn up at New York’s autumn schedule of galas.
Lauren, now 76, has a lot of good will in his native city. Each look here was greeted with cheers from the audience, and his post-show bow prompted a standing ovation, complete with the flash of camera phones. The designer is approaching national treasure status. Lauren stepped down as chief executive of his company late in 2015 and was replaced by Stefan Larsson who previously worked at H&M.
A 17,000 sq ft Polo Ralph Lauren store opens today on Regent Street in London, and the brand outfitted Team USA for the Rio Olympics this June.
Financially, perhaps, not everything looks so positive for Ralph Lauren, but Wednesday’s show adds further proof that things might be looking up for the brand on the eve of its 50th anniversary. It’s not everyone who can bring a city block to a standstill, after all.
