Vieux Boulogne from the Word of Mouth Flickr group, some rights reserved.
The bright orange cheese pictured above is sitting on my desk. This is Vieux Boulogne. Just one of the seven fromageries in and around Victor Hugo market in Toulouse stock it. Much like in the animal kingdom, in the cheese kingdom bright colours warn cheese eaters of danger. Vieux Boulogne comes tightly wrapped in cellophane for a reason: it absolutely stinks. Much like a never-been-washed public toilet stinks. It doesn't come as a surprise to learn that Vieux Boulogne is officially the world's whiffiest cheese. Scientifically proven, no less. It has been described as smelling like "rotting vegetables and the scent of a goat on heat ... pleasant eau de farmyard, replete with dung and Barbour jackets".
When it comes to foul smelling food, Vieux Boulogne is in distinguished company. The thorny durian fruit freaks a few out with its sewer-like scent - also compared to a "bunch of dead cats" - and is banned from many Asian hotels and airlines. Thai and Vietnamese fish sauces reek at close range and are also banned on some airlines.
Yet these three stinkers have one other thing in common. They all taste good. Vieux Boulogne is a classic soft French cheese with a far richer aftertaste than, say, Camembert or Brie. Durian is not known as the king of fruits because fruit fans think it's rubbish. It has to be one of the softest goo-fests of the fruit world, with a fantastically deep taste. And as for fish sauce, it gives a tasty oomph through any dish it is used in. I'm sure there are plenty other stinky snacks out there that taste great - brussels sprouts are one that spring to mind. What pongs out your kitchen but tastes great on a plate?
