La Scala at the Sukhothai Bangkok has long been a favourite with locals for good ol' Italian fare. However, under the helm of David Tamburini, La Scala's resident executive chef, and spanking-new interiors, the restaurant has undergone an upgrade of sorts.
Tamburini, a Sicilian native, has brought with him traditional recipes served with a contemporary twist -- even though he is not a fan of the words "modern" or "contemporary", but the phrase "It is what it is".
While La Scala has an extensive menu, it also offers a Summer Tasting Menu (2,900++ baht for seven courses), which consists of chef Tamburini's favourites from the à la carte menu.
"The summer menu is pretty easy because we follow European seasons. Following the seasons gives us a chance to have the products at their best, since 80% of our ingredients are imported," says the chef.
I like a bit of this and that, so I ordered from the à la carte, in addition to ordering the pomodoro e mozzarella (880 baht), featuring Campania buffalo mozzarella bavaroise, piccadilly and datterino tomato, and basil oil, a delicious work of art and was born in an hour. "I had to finalise the menu and was supposed to have oysters, black lentils and cucumber." But when he tasted it, chef Tamburini wasn't sure about the oysters, so he "minimised the caprese".
Also from the antipasti selection, the pane e ricci di mare (2,000 baht) did not fail to surprise. Garlic bruschetta and murasaki Japanese sea urchin with basil and lemon cod fish paté and white fennel bubbles brought a twinkle to my eye. I absolutely love uni, and seeing that on this dish made me salivate. The crisp squid ink-dyed garlic bruschetta mixed well with the creaminess of the sea urchin, while the white fennel bubbles added a refreshing touch.
The seasonal polipo e patata (880 baht), which is crispy potato skin filled with potato foam, griddled Mediterranean octopus and green olive sauce, has been chef Tamburini's favourite dish since its debut on the spring menu, and will probably continue on menus to come. From antipasti, I moved to zuppe and the crema di fave bianche, cozze e salicornia (680 baht). A slightly spicy, dry fava bean soup with Sardinian black mussels and sea asparagus for that peppery, tangy bite. Fava beans have never tasted this good, and quite frankly neither have mussels. Generally, I am never enthused about mussels.
The spaghetti alle melanzane bruciate (900 baht) from the primi piatti section is modern and much like how chef Tamburini describes his cooking.
"Classic spaghetti served in a 2018 style and in a restaurant like La Scala, you have to offer something different. Traditions are changing. My idea is to keep the flavours and simplicity, and make it modern, which is not easy."
The spaghetti in this case is accompanied by slightly smoked aubergine juice, deep fried aubergines, datterino tomatoes and hard ricotta cheese. Water is squeezed out of the smoked aubergines to make a juice and the spaghetti is cooked in that so that the entire dish is engulfed in the smoky aroma. Yum!
The rigatoni al forno (a paolo lopriore) (900 baht) is "baked pasta" rigatoni stuffed with Bolognese ragu, crispy Parmigiano Reggiano, béchamel and "intingolo".
"When you see an Italian restaurant, everyone expects tomato pasta or ragu. However, this is my idea of what ragu should be," says chef Tamburini. And Lord, am I thankful that the chef's idea went onto a plate and into my mouth.
As the meal progressed, I was quite satisfied already, but my eye caught the coda di tonno brasata ca cipudduzza (1,800 baht) in the secondi section. Gently braised tuna tail served with sweet-and-sour red onions, aubergines done two ways -- confit and grilled in honey vinegar -- and mint leaf is a good way to appreciate "chicken of the sea".
The costolette di agnello, vignarola al timo (1,800 baht), which is roasted Iberico lamb rack with a chamomile- and thyme-scented vegetable casserole, was also a dish on the spring menu and was such a hit with diners that it continues to grace La Scala.
Chef Tamburini loves making desserts, despite being diabetic since the age of 16. "You can play with the dish, unlike other produce. Dessert can reflect your imagination. All my dishes are powerful and strong and very 'gay-friendly'," he laughs. He is referring to the gocce di latte, mela e aloe -- milk drops (400 baht), which is a dessert that is very delicate and girlie. Milk drops panna cotta is served in fresh red apple juice with tiny aloe vera cubes and decorated with Begonias. Needless to say, it tastes divine, and I have indulged in it twice.
The Summer Tasting Menu ends with the fichi e gelato all'aceto (400 baht). Figs, walnuts and lemon leaf compote accompanied by the most delicious and unusual organic apple vinegar ice cream you will ever eat this side of the planet. A great way to end the meal, if a dark chocolate square from Sicily isn't your thing.
Whatever you choose to eat this season, remember that the essential way to enjoy Italian dishes is to dine at La Scala. And if you know me, praise like this doesn't come easy.
La Scala at The Sukhothai Bangkok Lunch is served noon to 3pm (last order 2pm) and dinner between 6 and 11.30pm (last order 10pm). The dress code is smart casual and reservations are strongly recommended. Call 02-344-8888, ext 8654.
