Amid a norm of pocket watches, Rolex's founder Hans Wilsdorf anticipated a future of reliable wristwatches, offering precision in all conditions, to meet the modern lifestyle emerging in the early 20th century.
His vision materialised in 1926 when Rolex launched the groundbreaking Oyster -- totally waterproof and dustproof, thanks to a system of screwing down the bezel, case back and winding crown against the middle case.
The centenary of the foundational invention is marked by the "Oyster Story" exhibition, running at the West Bund Dome in Shanghai until June 28.
Initially denoting the hermetically-sealed case, the name Oyster extended to Rolex timepieces with optimal protection for the movement.
Although small in size, the Oyster could match the precision of any large marine chronometer. Its performance was further enhanced by a new self-winding system, the Perpetual rotor patented in 1931.
The main pavilion of the immersive exhibition is dedicated to the origin and evolution of the Oyster while portraying iconic wearers who helped forge the reputation of Rolex watches.
Wilsdorf believed that excellence had to be proven in real-world conditions, which was powerfully demonstrated in October 1927, when Mercedes Gleitze successfully crossed the English Channel wearing the waterproof Oyster.
The long-distance feat by the British swimmer marked the genesis of the Testimonee concept and the associations between Rolex and remarkable individuals, whose accomplishments bear witness to the exceptional quality of its watches.
Over the decades, the archetype Oyster Perpetual gave rise to the Submariner, Explorer, GMT-Master and other models, tested in demanding environments such as the highest peaks, the depths of the ocean or hostile reaches of the planet.
The real-world experiences spurred continuous development and integration of new technologies to elevate the performance of Rolex's watches while forging an enduring bond with the pioneers and trailblazers.
Besides explorers, scientists and conservationists, the independent Swiss company supports athletes, artists and cultural institutions that carry forward the spirit of the Oyster, continuing to inspire new achievements.
This legacy is illustrated by 100 portraits of iconic Rolex watch wearers, displayed alongside heritage timepieces and contemporary models, as well as privately-owned watches kindly loaned for the exhibition.
Watchmaking stages, from design to final inspections, are outlined in the Superlative pavilion, which explores Rolex's mastery in the manufacture and maintenance of its timepieces.
In 2026, the Superlative Chronometer certification has been strengthend by three additional testing of resistance to magnetism, reliability and sustainability, besides the criteria of precision, waterproofness, self-winding and power reserve. This pavilion also provides an immersive experience of the optical atomic clock, developed by Rolex as an ultra-precise reference instrument, using laser-stimulated rubidium atoms to define the second with exceptional accuracy.
The Oyster Story is further depicted in a film screened in the cinema room and through a selection of publications in the Library Lounge. Encircling the exhibition space, large screens line a gallery, offering visitors a glimpse into the world of Rolex.
Elements are brought together in a cyclical, colour-themed display that weaves unexpected connections between the brand's various universes.
The landmark exhibition in Shanghai kicks off a broader programme that celebrates the Oyster's first century of constant innovation, horological feats and human accomplishments.
