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Euronews
Laura Ingemarsson

Profile: Jonathan Anderson takes historic helm of French fashion house Dior

The world of football makes regular headlines for huge money-spinning transfers as fans eagerly anticipate what wonders players will bring to their team.

This week has seen one of the biggest moves in the fashion business with the iconic French maison Dior now hoping Jonathan Anderson will liberally sprinkle his magic dust about its men's and women's collections to boost its fortunes.

For almost a decade, the Northern Irish designer led the LVMH-owned Spanish fashion house Loewe – an unmitigated success story, increasing the brand’s annual revenues fivefold.

Now, he steps into a historic role at Dior, becoming the first person since Christian Dior himself to serve as its sole creative director.

It’s a major moment for the 40-year-old designer, whose journey began far from the runways of Paris. Born in Magherafelt, a small town in Northern Ireland, Anderson left home at 18 to pursue acting in the US. He later changed course and returned to Europe. Drawing on his childhood passion for theatre and costume, he decided to study at the London College of Fashion, where he graduated.

Dior's new creative director Jonathan Anderson (Dior's new creative director Jonathan Anderson)

Influencer

Last year, Anderson was named one of the 100 most influential people by Time magazine, praising “his innate understanding of how fashion and human behavior intertwine” and how “his work is always ahead of the curve”.

His sense of cultural timing has been noticeable throughout the years.

Think back to February 2020, just before the world shut down, Harry Styles was rehearsing for the Today show in a colourful, patchwork JW Anderson cardigan. The knitted sweater quickly went viral on TikTok, where users began crocheting their own versions – unaware of just how much time lockdown would soon give them to perfect their craft skills.

Rihanna at 2023 Super Bowl halftime show wearing Jonathan Anderson (Rihanna at 2023 Super Bowl halftime show wearing Jonathan Anderson)

Another example is Rihanna’s headline-making pregnancy reveal at the 2023 Super Bowl halftime show, where she wore a striking all-red jumpsuit and breastplate designed by Anderson. The bold look subtly confirmed her second pregnancy to millions watching worldwide, creating a viral craze.

Or when Anderson decided to make then 87-year-old Dame Maggie Smith the face of Loewe campaign, showing that fashion doesn’t have an age.

Once in a generation

In a Vogue Business interview Dior CEO Delphine Arnault called him “the most talented designer of his generation.” Praising his experience at Loewe and leadership within the group, Arnault added, “He has great experience managing large teams, even though he is only 40. More importantly, he has a very clear vision for the brand.”

Anderson steps into the role following former creative director for women's collections, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

Former creative director for womenswear, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri (Former creative director for womenswear, designer Maria Grazia Chiuri)

The Italian designer Grazia Chiuri was also celebrated by Arnault for her “tremendous work with an inspiring feminist perspective and exceptional creativity, all imbued with the spirit of Monsieur Dior, which allowed her to design highly desirable collections.” Arnault said, “She has written a key chapter in the history of Christian Dior, greatly contributing to its remarkable growth and being the first woman to lead the creation of women’s collections.”

Dressed for success

Anderson is competitive by nature – something he may have inherited from his father, Willie Anderson, a former Ireland international rugby player. Anderson sees clear parallels between sports and fashion, once telling The Independent: “Sportspeople are extremely competitive – to win. And in fashion, when you see someone do something brilliant, it drives you to do something better… to keep outdoing yourself".

JW Anderson collection from 2013, showing the typical unisex look of the brand (JW Anderson collection from 2013, showing the typical unisex look of the brand)

His parents have always been supportive. In an interview with The Irish News, they said, “They believed in a kid who had monumental talent, and we were the same. We saw something in Jonathan. And then we went about ensuring in his early days that we could help him fulfil his dream. You’ll do anything for your kid if you believe their dream is not something that’s beyond them.”

His father Willie even admitted that he and Anderson's mother Heather “re-mortgaged the house to try and get him through certain points.”

In 2008, he launched his eponymous label, JW Anderson, in which LVMH acquired a minority stake in 2013. In 2015, JW Anderson made history at the British Fashion Council’s Fashion Awards by becoming the first house to win both Menswear and Womenswear Brand of the Year in the same year.

The brand is known for blurring the line between men’s and womenswear, often labeled androgynous or gender-bending, though Anderson himself prefers the term "unisex".

Thankfully for his parents and their home, Anderson has more than delivered.

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