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Bangkok Post
Bangkok Post
National
NAUVARAT SUKSAMRAN

Pope tests fabric of Thai pride

Pope Francis' visit to Myanmar tomorrow will not only bring joy to Christians in the country but also give Thais a sense of pride.

While the highlights during the Pope's three-day trip from today will be the speeches he delivers to mark his third visit to Asia, after South Korea and the Philippines, since becoming Pope in March 2013, attention may also be on the chasuble he will be wearing which is the work of a Thai designer.

The chasuble is a sleeveless outer vestment the Pope wears to mass. Chasubles are intricately designed and tailored to conform to the character of the places which Pope Francis visits.

Although the Pope is a global figure, the chasuble he wears will reflect a recognition and appreciation of Thai workmanship as well as the designer's talent.

"It's the greatest honour of my life," said Athiwat Chuenwut, designer of the Pope's chasuble for the Myanmar visit. He has also designed gowns for the archbishops and priests from many other countries who will also congregate in Myanmar to receive the Pope.

"The vestments for Pope Francis and the archbishops and priests embody a unique design for this particular visit," he said.

Besides the cross and the heart, which represent Christianity, also embroidered on the vestments is a Burma Padauk, the country's national flower.

Myanmar and Vatican flag emblems are also sewn near the embroidery of a pigeon carrying an olive branch, which is a symbol of peace.

"We need to apply knowledge of both theology and symbolism to the work," Mr Athiwat said.

These are the main motifs on the vestments, but his work does not end there. To make the chasuble really suit Pope Francis, Mr Athiwat did extensive homework to visualise a design that would represent the Pope's personality.

Simplicity is the key to how Pope Francis goes about conducting his daily routine. This element is adopted in the design of the chasuble, Mr Athiwat said, adding his clothes must not appear ostentatious or overdecorated.

The exceptional skills of seamstresses are also pronounced as the texture of the gowns itself carries the Thai aesthetic identity. Mr Athiwat used famous silk from Pak Thong Chai district of Nakhon Ratchasima.

Mr Athiwat has tailored two chasubles for Pope Francis, one in green and the other in red. The green is to be worn at the mass at Myanmar's national stadium in Yangon while the red one is for when the Pope attends another mass in a church to celebrate Saint Andrew.

Each chasuble is also embroidered with the motto "Ad Maiorem Dei Gloriam" in Latin which means "to the greater glory of God".

Mr Athiwat, owner of the Sanctus Holy Vestment shop in Thailand, conceded that producing gowns for people of such religious stature was no easy task.

"I was worried and felt a lot of stress," he said, explaining the pressure that was heaped on him after being given two months to finish the work.

Four years ago, Mr Athiwat was granted an audience with Pope Francis early in his papacy in Rome. He presented four gowns to the Pope bearing an ethnic hill tribe-woven pattern.

In producing the gowns for the Pope and the archbishops on their Myanmar visit, Mr Athiwat sought help from Phornsawan Saengpradarb, owner of the KK Punching Embroidery Factory and a devout Catholic.

Ms Phornsawan's company was delegated the jobs of sewing and embroidering the chasubles, mitres (liturgical headdress worn by Christian priests), and even the cover of the gospel to be used during the ceremonies.

"The time constraint was a pressing concern," she said. The gown-tailoring timetable overlapped with that of the royal cremation of the late King Bhumibol Adulyadej late last month when staffing levels were low as many workers attended the royal funeral.

But she encouraged all the workers to do the best they could for the leader of the Roman Catholic Church.

She and Mr Athiwat, along with nearly 500 Christian Thais, will join a reception ceremony for Pope Francis in Yangon.

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