If they gave out a trophy to the state that supports its winemakers the least, I suspect NSW would win it every year.
That flows all the way down from state government to bottle shops, restaurants, bars and cafes. That's my opinion - sad but true.
In fact, I wrote a column last year on new wine trends, based on a first of its kind national report called State of the Grapes, that supported this view.
The report analysed sales data from BWS and Dan Murphy's to give an insight into what Australia's wine shelves of the future could look like.
One key finding: NSW, as Australia's leading market, has less state loyalty than others, with 90 per cent of wines sold coming from other states or countries.
Now, long-time wine industry professional David Cumming has decided to do something about it, and the early signs are encouraging.
What tipped him over the edge was a planned trip to Sydney from his home in Orange, which would include a visit to the Art Gallery of NSW. He was checking the wine list and menu and didn't like what he saw.
"There were only three NSW wines on it," he said. "That's crazy ... a missed opportunity to showcase the outstanding wines NSW produces."
He did some web research to compare.
"The Art Gallery of Western Australia was selling 90 per cent local wines, South Australia 71 per cent, Victoria 40 per cent, and then there's NSW on 8 per cent. So disappointing.
"I saw the other day that the Opera House has added a new French sparkling to their wine list, which is fine. But wouldn't it be great to see Swift Sparkling on their list?
"They win all these international awards and trophies ... they're local and wouldn't be out of place on any wine list.
"NSW produces some dazzling wines, but it's hard to get people to support NSW wine if we don't introduce them to it."
So, he started sending out letters to a handful of politicians - his local member, and members of both the state government and opposition.
He is pushing for publicly-funded venues, such as the art gallery and museum, to carry an agreed percentage of NSW wines.
"Surely the NSW government could do that as part of the lease agreements?"
Good news: he's had his first small win.
The Art Gallery's catering partner has announced it has expanded its NSW wine offering at its two outlets, to 50 per cent of the selection at MOD Dining and 44 per cent at the Gallery Cafe.
"That's great, but it needs to be ongoing," Cumming said.
"There is a fantastic opportunity to do this with the upcoming opening of the $900 million Powerhouse Museum in Parramatta," Cumming said.
There's a long way to go, but it's a start.
The Vintner's Daughter Riesling Duet 2025
$38
This is a new addition to the portfolio for Canberra winery The Vintner's Daughter - named Duet because it's a blend of Hilltops and Murrumbateman fruit. Blended after being fermented separately, it's a brightly-fruited wine. White flower and citrus nose, with lime citrus and stonefruit shining through on the palate, then bristling, limey acidity.
Hesketh Small Batch Adelaide Hills Fiano 2025
$28
The elevated vineyards of Adelaide Hills is proving a very good area for Fiano. A bouquet of spicy pears and jasmine takes you to a textured, silky palate - the wine actually goes through partial malo - with flavours of sweet pear, nectarine and apricot. There's a nudge of spice, some mineral too. Slippery, soft, easy drinking and refreshing. Good value.
Castle Rock A & W Pinot Noir 2024
$60
One of a handful of quality pinots from this Great Southern producer, and it packs a delicious punch. The overarching element is its elegance and lightness of touch, backed by a spicy lift that runs the full length of the wine. Macerated cherry, plum and raspberry flavours, earthy forest growth, bright acid and a lingering tail of tannins. This is really impressive.
