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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Travel
Sorrel Moseley-Williams

Pies and politics in Buenos Aires' Perón Perón cafe

Perón Perón Resto Bar
The truth is she never left you … the candlelit shrine to Eva at Perón Perón Resto Bar. Photograph: Demotix/Corbis

Perón Perón Resto Bar in Buenos Aires’ Palermo Hollywood district is fascinating food-wise and for its reflections of political history.

The Argentinian capital is home to five restaurants devoted to former president General Juan Domingo Perón and his wife, Eva. But meaningful memorabilia and indulgent comfort food make Perón Perón the preferred haunt for activists and foodies.

A space for peronista youths to discuss politics over the pastel de papas (shepherd’s pie, the general’s favourite dish), locro bean stew and malbec served in penguin jugs, this casual establishment is equally popular with kirchneristas, adherents of the strand of Peronism created by the late Néstor Kirchner and his wife, outgoing president Cristina Fernández de Kirchner.

Perón Perón
Don’t fry for me Argentina … some of the Perón’s favourite dishes are served in the restaurant. Photograph: Reuters/Corbis

Amid supportive graffiti on the military green walls, the restaurant’s memorabilia includes a kitsch candlelit shrine to Evita, labourers’ attire and a sewing machine-turned beer dispenser – representing Evita’s social campaign to help mothers clothe their families.

When the regimental march blares mid-meal, you’ve got two options: keep eating, or join in, singing and table-slapping along with the packed house. Yet the singing might not be so loud if opposition candidate Mauricio Macri, current leader of the Buenos Aires city government, wins Argentina’s run-off election on 22 November. Macri made a considerable – and surprising – dent in the popularity of Fernández de Kirchner’s anointed incumbent, Daniel Scioli. Peronists might soon be eating on the defensive.
Carranza 2225, Palermo Hollywood, on Facebook

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