Row houses in the Sino-Portuguese style stand still amid the quietness of the old town. An old lady is busy arranging her basketry products in front of a concrete wall of which a dark-coloured stain looks like an abstract mural. Steps from the Chinese shrine, a grocery offers everything for everyone, from old-fashioned lighters and watches for men to colourful batiks for the ladies who might want to dress up in local style.
Unique design and bright colours make Tao Ming School an impressive place to stop by, though the school has no classes anymore. Built in the year 1927 with a fund raised among Chinese miners and merchants, the school opened for Chinese tuition for immigrants. The school was closed 20 years. Now it serves as a venue for summer camps and community activities. Peerawat Jariyasombat
Takua Pa town looks like a scene from a retro film. And it has been this way for decades.
One hot afternoon, I find myself in the old town, slowly strolling along the footpaths that are placed under the houses' eaves, exploring the pockets without being burned under the strong sun. Under the shade, the architecture and decoration from the last era reveal interesting stories of this sleepy town. The classic windows with stucco gable trim, Chinese words and tiny shrines in front of the colonial style concrete buildings let on that their owners are quite wealthy.
Takua Pa is an old town of which history can be dated back to more than 700 years under the name Takola. Tin and maritime trade made it a prosperous port town, particular in recent decades during the glory days of mining.
But Takua Pa today is very peaceful. The town became pretty quiet after the mining period ended. I am curious as to why a number of houses are closed, until a native Phangnga lady explains.
"There are a lot of wealthy families here. They got very rich from the mining industry, long before the rise of Phuket. Here, some houses are closed, but the dwellers are living inside and enjoy their privacy. Though some houses are neglected, the owners do not want to sell. They just want to keep it closed."
In front of the shophouses, the covered walkways allow pedestrians to get around easier. I find some houses are abandoned and in poor shape. However, I was glad to find that some houses are well maintained. In the heart of the town, the Sino-Portuguese-style houses densely line five main roads, Udon Thara, Klan Kaeo, Montri 2, Na Muang, and very dense on the Si Takua Pa Road.
In a bid to make a bigger loop, I hop on a pho thong bus, a truck with a wooden body and two rows of benches on both sides. The local bus then makes its way out of town, allowing me to see landmarks that scatter out across the town.
Saphan lek or the iron bridge mirrors the glory day of tin mining that made Takua Pa rich. As the bus moves around town, it passes outstanding landmarks like Tao Ming School, Khun Intra's building, Senanud Rangsan Temple, and various Chinese shrines. These landmarks show mixed influences from China and the West on this area.
Some shophouses are adorned with pictures from yesteryear, showing native Takua Pa families in the traditional attire of the Nyonya, or Peranakan Chinese. Tools and furniture from the old days fill the house with nostalgic atmosphere.
One of the more enjoyable attractions on the trip is the factory of Taosor cake. Taosor is a kind of Chinese cake called khanom pia in Thai. Khanom pia has crust made from wheat flour and filling made from mung bean and sugar. But Taosor's crust has another layer made of sweetened flour.
With a recipe passed down through several generations, Tuangrat Taosor is a famous local manufacturer of taosor cake in Takua Pa. The factory opens for the public to visit, allowing participants to try shaping the cake by hands or put different fillings into the cake. Try the freshly baked taosor, and you will love it.
Hours later, when I get back to downtown Takua Pa, the roads surprisingly turn busy. Some sections are closed and merchants are setting up their booths right on the streets. It is Sunday afternoon, and the town is about to be revived.
As the afternoon shade covers the town, dwellers begin to show up and enjoy the bustling pedestrian street that is set among the ambience of the old town. From the empty streets of hours ago, Takua Pa is filled with people. Various local specialities, meat balls, seafood and local sweets can be found along the way. Coffee aroma and laughter fill up the roadside coffee houses. Kids dart to the ice cream kiosk. Local ladies with batik tube skirts roam the flea market.
It is the atmosphere of a real town, not a touristy place.
Visit Takua Pa, which magically turns impressively vibrant on the weekend. You may love the cosy atmosphere of this old port town.
Travel Info
- Takua Pa is around 120km from Phuket International Airport. Rental cars are available at the airport.
- For more information, call TAT Phangnga at 054-771-111.
