Aug. 25--Imagine, if you will, the perfect warm weather cocktail -- low in alcohol, fruity, just a touch sweet, with a bit of a bubble. You've just conjured vin de maison.
At first glance, the words "vin de maison" translate to the pedestrian sounding "house wine," presumably an affordable, sturdy wine to quaff every day. In Provence, however, and other such sun-drenched romantic European destinations, the words "vin de maison" mean a house-made aperitif infused with fruit, flowers and herbs, to be sipped chilled with soda before dinner.
At A10 in Chicago's Hyde Park, beverage director Alex Bachman offers a seasonally rotating selection of these off-dry wine-based beverages that his team prepares in 15-gallon batches at his company's Logan Square bar Billy Sunday.
"Vin d'orange is the most classic version," says Bachman, "a staple aperitif found in Provence, Nice, and Marseille." But A10 creates seasonal varieties year-round. They macerate green walnuts in April to drink in autumn and Michigan tart cherries in July. "We once tried cranberries but they were an awful disaster -- the tannin and acidity were out of control."
Often, the preparation involves more than just the flesh of the fruit -- peels, pits, leaves and stems may be included in the infusion to heighten flavor. "Pits give a maraschino-like flavor, like bitter almond," says Bachman, "and with these low-proof infusions, you need more solids to make the flavor profile stand out." His recipe (below) calls for the bitter, hard-to-find Seville orange, but any orange will do the job.
Served over ice with soda water on the side to add as desired, vin de maison replaces the typical spritzer as a refreshing, light drink that is perfect before dinner on a late summer patio night.
Lisa Futterman is a freelance writer.
Vin de maison
Prep: 10 minutes
Rest: 1 month
Makes: 6-7 servings
Adapted from A10 beverage director Alex Bachman. Look for dried hibiscus blossoms and horehound in spice shops.
1 bottle (750 milliliters) dry white or ros頷ine
2 1/2 ounces vodka
1/3 cup granulated sugar
1/3 vanilla bean, split
1/4 lemon, thinly sliced
Peel of 1 Seville or other orange
2 small pieces dried hibiscus blossoms
1/4 teaspoon horehound
1 Combine everything in a glass container (large Mason jar, carafe, etc.) and cover. Macerate for 1 month in cool conditions. Avoid direct sunlight and temperatures exceeding 70 degrees. Agitate briefly every other day. No need to shake, a simple roll of the container will do.
2 Strain out solids, and reserve liquid. Depending on preference one can also pass through a fine filter or cheesecloth. Bottle, and store in refrigerator. Typically served on ice in a wine glass with sparkling water on the side.
