Many Christmases ago, the River Café’s Rose Gray taught me to make this retro, vodka-spiked pasta and I loved it instantly. It is very simple but has a unique taste; not for every week perhaps, but when a little something kitsch is called for – I eat it at least once in the festive season. It’s a menu staple at a particular Florentine trattoria, so I assume it’s from there, but if you know any different, I’d be fascinated to know the origin!
Serves 4
red onion ½ small, sliced very thinly
olive oil
salt
dried chilli 1, crumbled or a ½ tsp chilli flakes
tomato passata 400g
vodka 75ml
double cream 150ml
penne 400g
Begin by cooking the onion in an open pan over a medium-low heat with 2 tablespoons of oil, 2 tablespoons of water and a good pinch of salt. The water will help the onion to soften; you don’t want it to fry too much. Once it has evaporated, allow the onion to sweat until translucent and giving.
Add the chilli, followed by the tomato passata and simmer over a low heat for 20 minutes. Add roughly half the vodka, then cook for 5 minutes more before adding the cream. Keep over a low heat, stirring from time to time. You can taste it now and add salt if necessary.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to the boil, drop the penne in and give it a stir. Drain the pasta 2 minutes ahead of the time stated on the packet, reserving a mug of its cooking water.
Add the penne to the sauce with the remaining vodka and mix well. Add a little of the cooking liquor and stir over a low heat for the remaining 2 minutes of cooking time. Use more water where necessary.
I prefer to eat this without cheese as it masks the flavour of the vodka but it’s up to you.
Joe Trivelli is co-head chef at the River Café, London
