Last year Sir Paul Smith celebrated 50 illustrious years in the fashion industry. For the autumn/winter 2021 collection, the veteran designer revisits subcultures that have signposted his career, remixing icons of British clothing design for a new generation.
Back in October 1970, he opened his first store "Paul Smith Vetements Pour l'Homme" in Nottingham. His men's collection, a mix of casual and semi-formal wear, was presented in Paris in 1976. By the end of the 1970s, the second store opened its doors in Covent Garden, London.
Tailoring has been an essential part of the womenswear collection since its launch in 1994.
This season, a new suit shape taking on 1970s references is a key style, fashioned in muted gold, check and striped options. The slim-fit four-button blazer is matched with wide-leg trousers with pleats at the front for a flattering fit. The suits appears softer in construction for added comfort.
Tailoring fabrics and techniques have been applied to more casual silhouettes for everyday pieces. Co-ordinated jacket and trouser sets, for instance, cater to the work-from-home world of 2021.
The palette of wintry greens, purples and browns are punctured by zesty highlights of lime, orange and pink. Floral prints create a sense of softness to sit in contrast with the utilitarian toughness of military jackets and heavy boots.
Patterns, checks and stripes are prevalent in every collection. A modernised paisley motif appears on dresses as well as tote and shoulder bags. Recalling 1970s ska, tartan tailoring and check patterns are styled with other check pieces.
Originating from Smith's experimentation of coloured yarn, the Signature Stripe appeals as an eye-catching print or as hidden details. The Artist Stripe was originally based on the colour combinations of an expressionist painting that Smith saw at London's Tate Museum.
An expressive take on the Artist Stripe, the Painted Stripe debuts on bags and shoes in this season's collection.
