With your genes coming from the Queen’s upholsterer at Windsor Castle, a stylish onset was always going to occur. And for the British-born New York-based designer Paul Andrew, it was specifically the realm of shoes in which his creativity was directed.
Although for a time, Andrew seriously considered a career in architecture recognizing his love for form and structure, it was footwear design that prevailed. Being surrounded by sumptuous and regal textiles proved too much temptation for him and seeing the parallels in footwear design construction, a befitting course ensued.
He became apart of the prestigious Cordwainers set in London, and post studies Andrew honed in on his skills at fashion houses such as Alexander McQueen and Calvin Klein before establishing his eponymous label in 2013. A man on a mission, he was navigating his way through design/form and for him, it was a road of discovery, he was in search for the “perfect harmony of trend and emotional refinement in women’s footwear.”
Andrew has certainly discovered a lot along the way, which has seen him pick up awards as well as a very polished following, including Jessica Chastain, Emma Stone, Lupita Nyong’o and Amal Clooney. And so, it would seem that he’s found what he’s been looking for, that magical harmonic balance between mode and amenity – if his shoes could sing, they surely would.
Why shoes? As a child my family was certain that I would become an architect; I was so drawn to the shape, construction, and materials used to create buildings. However, my father’s work as the Queen’s upholsterer at Windsor Castle meant I was often surrounded by luxurious tactile textiles, colors and artisan craftsmanship. When it came time to choose a field of study for university, footwear design seemed like the perfect combination of all my interests.
What was the first shoe you designed and how has your aesthetic evolved since then? When I launched my brand back in 2013 my idea was to find the perfect harmony of trend and emotional refinement in women’s footwear. At that time, the trend in women’s shoes was for excruciatingly high heels with heavy platform soles, which was decidedly not my aesthetic. I’ve always preferred the silhouette of a more refined shoe and thus introduced a collection of elegant, sophisticated yet joyful shoes that embraced comfort, color and print. The collection has evolved over the past several years, but the design codes I established, in the beginning, are still very much in place. In fact, the best selling shoe still remains a beloved style I designed my very first season.
What are the cornerstones of your style? Practical yet bold. You will usually find me sporting a black hoodie sweatshirt paired with slim-fit jeans and lace-up oxfords or a white sneaker. I opt for pieces that are simultaneously wearable and not pretentious.
Tell us about the Fall collection...Earlier last summer I was passing through MoMa and was struck by a Robert Motherwell painting with graphic brushstrokes of black and crimson red. His pieces really set the tone for my Fall ’18 collection and even inspired a signature print. As I sat down to design, I was listening to a lively 80ss playlist of Duran Duran and Pat Benatar. When I completed my sketches, I realized I’d created a selection of sexy, strong silhouettes very reminiscent of the 1980s. It wasn’t necessarily my initial thought process, but I loved the end result of bold colors, patent leather, and slouchy ankle boots. That decade evokes an authentic feeling of adventure and fun to me, and I wanted to express that in this collection.
What is ‘luxury’ to you? Having time to read and enjoy a book and managing to sleep more than six hours a night!
What is next for the label? I have ambitious plans to advance my brand on a global scale and several exciting projects are currently in the works; unfortunately none I’m able to share at the moment!
Shop the collection on Bergdorf Goodman.
