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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Katie Mather

Parmigiano Reggiano: wine pairings that bring out the best in the Italian cheese

As Parmesan ages, its flavours develop.
As Parmesan ages, its flavours develop. Photograph: Consorzio del formaggio Parmigiano Reggiano

The thing about Parmigiano Reggiano is, we don’t give it enough star-status in the UK. Sure, it’s amazing when grated atop a steaming bowl of carbonara, but when does it get to play the lead role?

Where is it on your cheeseboard? Because it’s us cheese lovers who have to raise this wonderfully powerful cheese above condiment status. Go against the grain and carve a chunk of Parmigiano Reggiano to sit alongside your plum chutney. Be la differenza!

The next question is: what will you pair your Parmigiano Reggiano with? Will it even be a red wine? Or should you choose something else to complement the intense crumble of a richly aged Parmigiano Reggiano?

Well, it actually all depends on the age of your Parmigiano Reggiano.

For a 20-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano
Spending 20 months in a warehouse with hundreds of other wheels of delicious Parmigiano Reggiano sounds like a long time, but this is actually one of the younger forms of this delicious cheese, as it has to be matured for at least 12 months before it can be officially called Parmigiano Reggiano.

Twenty months into the ageing process, you’ll find Parmigiano Reggiano developing earthy flavours and a mellow fruity tang, alongside a youthful yoghurty aroma and flavour that makes it so moreish.

In excellent examples, you’ll find aged ham and creamy butter in the complex flavour profile, as well as acorns and chestnuts, and tart, just-ripe soft fruits – like wild mirabelles.

To accent those rich, ripe, buttery flavours, let’s get sugary. Grab a bottle of off-dry white and get sipping. A kabinett riesling, such as Kendermanns or Moselland, will offer up juicy apples and quince along with a supple, full ripeness and a satisfying acidity that’ll bring out the tropical fruit warmth in the Parmigiano Reggiano without becoming cloying.

If you’re off the booze, Leitz Eins Zwei alcohol-free riesling (alc vol 0.0%) packs those pretty yellow plum flavours and crisp apple aromas with zero alcohol involved. A perfect pairing for Parmigiano Reggiano of any age.

For a 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano
Add just four months to the ageing process and you have 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano, a delicacy renowned for its balance of sweetness and unbeatable savoury tang. This cheese has an undeniable apple-like quality in both flavour and aroma, with woodland greenery and nuttiness adding depth and interest.

The texture of a 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano is ideal as a standout piece on a cheeseboard thanks to its combination of smooth creaminess and delicate crunch. It’s complex and rugged without becoming challenging, making it an ideal accompaniment for a fresh white wine.

A bright and blossomy gavi will do just the trick, bringing fresh acidity and nuttiness into the mix for a perfect pairing. With a slightly slick mouthfeel, each sip softens the Parmigiano Reggiano’s sharper notes, and its honey-floral attributes round off the mature cheese’s lingering aromas.

If you prefer to walk on the wild side, opt for a racy orange or skin-contact wine instead. The malvasia grape makes a delicious orange wine, with the best sharing a pop of clementine acidity, a burst of floral decadence and a zing of apricot lushness.

Pouring wine at a dinner party with friends.
A fresh white wine is an ideal accompaniment to the smooth creaminess of a 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano. Photograph: gregory_lee/Getty Images/iStockphoto

For a 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano
An incredible addition to any cheese platter, a 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano boasts a fruity intensity and a savoury warmth that sets it far apart from its cheesy siblings.

That delicate crunch we experienced in the 24-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano has developed further into a well-established grain throughout the cheese, creating an unbeatable umami seam within the well-aged acidity of the main body of the Parmigiano Reggiano.

The incredible umami complexity in a 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano creates a combination of flavours that can trick your brain into tasting caramelised meat roasted over a fire.

Yes, it’s time to grab a bottle of red. There’s something so satisfying about pairing a deep, fruity malbec with savoury, umami-rich food, and this 36-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano definitely fits that bill. Grab a pinotage malbec blend from South Africa for extra thyme and rosemary aromas to really set off the Parmigiano Reggiano’s savoury warmth, such as Bruce Jack Pinotage Malbec.

To tag along with the crunchy tang of those deeply developed crunchy textures in your Parmigiano Reggiano, head to Emilia-Romagna and get involved with lambrusco. Instead of the sweet, pinky-purple fizz you remember, opt for a real taste of Parmigiano Reggiano country by popping a bone-dry, super-fragrant bottle from Camillo Donati. You’ll never look back.

For more information, please visit parmigianoreggiano.com

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