A retrospective exhibition in Sweden of artist Hilma Af Klint, a pioneer of abstraction and forerunner to Kandinsky caught Acne Studios' creative director, Jonny Johansson's eye for his summer 2014 collection. Klint's bold prints have been used on shirting, T-shirts and silk scarves. Metallics also played a key role, the foil gold suit was pure Bowie. Some of the shapes are hard to wear (huge flared trousers), but the commercial sales are there in the prints and pieces such as the beautiful raw-edged double-breasted jacket and three-button car coat Photograph: Helen Seamons
Riccardo Tisci's techno tribe collection fused imagery from America and Africa; graphic prints of computer circuit boards, music electronics and Masaï and Zulu iconography were cut together with bold stripes of red, white and blue. It made for a more bright and energetic outing than previous seasons, where religious iconography has been the go-to reference to pair with American sports. The silhouette was top-heavy, layered from oversized parka down to leggings under bermuda shorts Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images
This is only creative director's Aldo Maria Camillo's second outing for Cerruti 1881. A quietly serene collection inspired in parts by re-imagining sportswear in tailoring, a sweatshirt shoulder is used for the outerwear. The belt on coats has been moved up to the chest, secured inside with a removable harness, and consequently shifts the volume of the coat to fall in an A-line shape. A naval-themed print of birds soaring over the sea and ropes appeared throughout on scarves, duster coats and bomber jackets, both printed and as an intricate embossed design. Photograph: Dan & Corina Lecca
In case you were in any doubt, florals are officially a thing for next summer. When mistress of poetic darkness Ann Demeulemeester shows flowers (granted, still on the gothic side rather than garish Hawaiian) you know it's an inescapable trend. Teamed with big-top circus stripes this was a far lighter collection than type would suggest, (a pink satin jacket and yellow shoes, for heavens sake!) although the signature silhouette of layered shirts, waistcoat and a frock coat were all still present Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex Features
Continuing with their show-stopping spectaculars, Berluti took over the Hotel Sully on Place des Vosges in the Marais. The models lounged in the windows before descending to walk through the crowd on to their tableaux plinths in the courtyard, which had been carpeted with fake turf for the evening. Clothes-wise it was a tailored offering for off-duty days, relaxed blazers for travelling (overnight bags featured prominently), with a picnic and a punt on the river at the destination – pastel-checked three piece suits and all-white looks, sure to be a subtrend for summer Photograph: Michel Dufour/WireImage
A Comme des Garcons message is always tricky to fathom. This collection was no less so than usual, but if you break the collection down into sections of around five looks, what jumps out is a progression of that look and a series of mini tribes. In the checked section, the outfit appears to peel away to reveal a new layer; the colourful cartoon montage prints first appear as a shirt peeking out and end as full-blown sleeves and trousers. Both looks were in contrast to the darker looks and the back-fastening leather-bib gang. A finale of headscarved looks further gave the impression of a street gang Photograph: Pixelformula/Sipa/Rex Features
A collaboration with outdoor specialist Seil Marschall saw every model carry a version of the functional fishing bag/backpack hybrid in a variety of fabric and colour combos. Countryside pursuits such as hiking, camping and fishing were clearly on Watanabe's mind. The hero piece was the multipocketed jacket that can hold stuff. Who says fashion isn't practical? Photograph: Fairchild Photo Service/Corbis
Surf's up dudes. It's a new wave for Kenzo, literally. Next season's ubiquitous sweatshirt has an embroidered wipeout wave, and a repeat print of waves and a brushstroke print (trend alert). A 90s flashback to Point Break styling and the California surf scene, with T-shirts over long-sleeved tops and a surf bead redux in the shape of oversized ring pull necklaces. Another tick for next summer's sports trend Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images
