Designer Guillaume Henry moved the Carven man from the office to a South of France artist's studio for summer 2014 with a colour palette straight from a Van Gogh painting: sunflower yellow and orange; starry night blues, and fern, mint and celadon greens Photograph: Julien M. Hekimian/Getty
Paint strokes on a cropped sweatshirt and a 'felt tip pen' hand-drawn check continued the artist theme. The Carven man is neat – shirts are tucked in and trousers belted – but the silhouette has a new volume: blouson in tops and A-line in coats; collars are oversized. There were echos of Marni in the quirkiness; looks were styled with flesh-coloured socks and patent two-strap sandals – a collaboration with ancient Greek sandals Photograph: Julien M. Hekimian/Getty Images Europe
Raf Simons chose to show at the Gagosian Gallery's Calder and Prouvé exhibition under the Calder mobiles, with models weaving in and out of the Prouvé structures. Young is the new old this fashion week, evident in the male playsuit and schoolboy-socks styling and bright pop-art advertising slogans on tops, clutch pouches and wallets Photograph: PATRICK KOVARIK/AFP
Trend alert: the man tunic is coming, reader. JW Anderson showed it in London. Raf showed it here and helpfully labelled it 'This is the new shape' in case you were in any doubt Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage
It was a more youthful collection for Valentino. Looks were styled with a new version of the house trainer (Hello, next generation shopper) and flip-flops (Hello, dress-down Friday) Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
An emerging trend is denim, fashion shorthand for youth, and it was worked in here in panelled tailoring and a reprisal of winter's camo print. A toile de jouy joined the print roster and sits on the sidelines of the floral trend, with a flower-injected traditional camo print shown on a pair of satin-finish trousers Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
There had been a continuing buzz around Haider Ackermann ever since his name was touted for the Dior job that went to Raf Simons. The audience for the low-key presentation for his menswear collection was rewarded with a quintessential Ackermann collection that transferred his womenswear effortlessly to menswear, focusing on his signature drop-crotch trousers, kimono jackets and silk scarves – a louche evening look in sumptuous satins and jewel tones Photograph: Rex Features
You get the feeling the Ackermann man would be at home in an opium den. If this sounds costumey, it wasn't – the tattooed models added a realness. These are clothes that work in real life – the silk bomber jackets, for one, would pep up any wardrobe Photograph: PIXELFORMULA/SIPA / Rex Features/Rex Features
