Get all your news in one place.
100’s of premium titles.
One app.
Start reading
The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Lifestyle
Helen Seamons

Paris menswear: 10 things we learned

Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
1. Colour is the new print
Dries van Noten Menswear

Autumn/winter 2014 is a quieter affair in terms of print. Designers who are usually firmly entrenched in that camp all but ditched it in favour of tonal colour combining. Case in point: print master Dries van Noten split his collection in to four key colour 'gangs' who strode out in co-ordinated packs
Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
2. Camel is the new black
Alexander Wang/Carven/Ami

In sartorial terms camel is shorthand for elegance. The Paris collections were jam-packed with camel – not just the traditional overcoat. Ami was top to toe in camel knitwear and the season's new looser cut trouser silhouette. At Alexander Wang a punched leather camel baseball jacket proved it works as streetwear too
Photograph: Kristy Sparow/Getty Images Europe
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
3. Shoulder robing is a thing
Haider Ackermann/Louis Vuitton/APC

Gentlemen, if your arms are in coat sleeves next winter then you haven't paid attention. Shoulder robing has been the default styling trick this week in Paris. Sweeping into or out of a room with your coat perched cape-like on your shoulders is what's expected come autumn. All you need is good posture and a coat – easy!
Photograph: Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
4. Teddy bears are the new style icons
Sacai/Acne Studio/Maison Martin Margiela
The trend for all things furry continued with a vengance in Paris. From the statement-making lambskin slipper shoes at Acne and the shaggy Yeti coat at Maison Martin Margiela to the beautiful tuft carpet coats at Valentino, it's a trend of extremes. You'll need one cuddly piece in your winter wardrobe. Our favourite piece is the green bomber jacket at Sacai
Photograph: PR
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
5. It's a school yard stand-off between parkas and duffle coats
Dior Homme/Yohji Yamamoto

School staples are going head to head for winter. Yohji Yamamoto worked his magic on the school boy's favourite, the duffle, with rope detailing that unravelled, while Dior Homme remixed it in denim and Valentino kept it traditional in charcoal grey. Luxury brands including Hermes reworked the parka in luxe fabrics and Dior Homme showed them over impeccably tailored suits – proof the business man has options beyond the overcoat
Photograph: Victor Boyko/Getty Images Europe
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
6. Fashion (still) loves art
Raf Simons autumn 2014
The fashion and art love-in shows no signs of abating. Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby took collaborating to a whole new level, having worked together in 2009 and also on a print used in Raf's debut haute couture collection for Dior. This epic autumn/winter menswear collection was a roaring success: coats featuring versions of Ruby's Bleach Collages were walking works of art
Photograph: Victor VIRGILE/Gamma-Rapho
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
7. Painted hair is the new tattoo
Junya Watanabe/Dries Van Noten

The perfect trend for those with commitment issues. Wash-out hair colours were seen at Yohji Yamamoto where models sported streaks of subtle hair chalk, while the gangs at Dries van Noten were marked with a strip of bold paint on their slicked-down hair and Junya Watanabe went for the full hair dye option, featuring purple and rust punks. Sun-in, anyone?
Photograph: PR
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
8. Basketball goes haute
Givenchy autumn 2014

Riccardo Tisci slam dunked basketball into the high fashion arena with his Bauhaus meets basketball collection for Givenchy. Models wore face nets that mimicked the beauty regimes of the Bauhaus era and echoed the mesh fence surrounding the 'court' set. An abstract print of court lines in typically Bauhaus colours (red, yellow, white) provided this season's cult sweatshirt design
Photograph: Dominique Charriau/WireImage
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
9. Will Smith is the new Kanye West
Now that Kanye is turning his hand to design again – he has collaborated for a second time with APC – his place on the frow this season was filled by man in black (blue). Will Smith dutifully turned up at Lanvin, Valentino, Louis Vuitton and Dior Homme
Photograph: Bertrand Rindoff Petroff/Getty Images Europe
Paris menswear:: Paris menswear:
10. Catwalks went all World of Interiors
Valentino/Paul Smith

Persian rugs are trending, and models stepped out into opulent chandelier- and fresco-decorated venues for both Valentino and Paul Smith, the latter a musician's tour of Morocco, furnished with carpet bags, and the former a couture-toned outing featuring a beautiful tufted carpet print coat
Photograph: PR
Sign up to read this article
Read news from 100’s of titles, curated specifically for you.
Already a member? Sign in here
Related Stories
Top stories on inkl right now
One subscription that gives you access to news from hundreds of sites
Already a member? Sign in here
Our Picks
Fourteen days free
Download the app
One app. One membership.
100+ trusted global sources.