Entering the enormous tented show space at Dior you were wandering through a scene of gigantic mirrored spheres inspired by surrealism and pop-art. Raf Simons's second ready-to-wear collection for Dior was entitled 'the persistence of memory'; the collection was a form of visual scrapbook, a collage of clothing significant to a moment in time for Raf and the house of Dior. Dior's signature houndstooth was shown as a wool bustier, tailoring was worn with masculine cut trousers and silhouettes went from short to long in one look. Twenties shift dresses were embroidered and appliquéd with surrealist motifs. The feeling is Raf has definitely made his mark at Dior Photograph: Dior
Hussein Chalayan's beautifully tailored coats – some sleeveless and worn over knitwear – his dresses with print reminiscent of running paint and his skilled fabrication were the highlights of the A/W show. Clearly this key piece will be snapped up by his loyal fans Photograph: Francois Guillot/AFP/Getty Images
The original it bag! We love it when fashion has a sense of humour. Only Karl Lagerfeld would dare … Photograph: Jo Jones
Isabel Marant is the stylists' favourite and a wardrobe must for the cool fashion crowd but comes with a waiting list. For A/W 2013 Isabel Marant is the fashion editors' go-to label for an understated black coat with pockets edged in leather, a fine-gauge knitted black dress and the shortest mini skirts in silver with studded detailing. The biggest contenders for the waiting list are likely to be the heavily embellished suede jackets and wedged ponyskin boots Photograph: Rex Features
Colbalt blue, black and red, diamond panelling and sharp shoulders all featured heavily throughout Roland Mouret's show. Tailoring was slick but the spotlight shone on the eveningwear with its clean lines and three-dimensional folds. As models passed they revealed a super sexy cutaway back held firm with straps. No doubt there may be a few red carpet outings in the near future Photograph: PR
Junya Watanabe opened his show fusing tweed and checked wool with leather biker jackets to create coats. From there on in it was all about the deconstruction and reconstruction of the biker jacket. Denim jeans also featured heavily with patchwork detailing. These will be a certain hit with Watanabe fans Photograph: Martin Bureau/AFP/Getty Images
There is no doubt that the French do simple chic well. Vanessa Bruno's show proves that a simple pinstripe suit worn with a neat button-to-the-neck shirt is the ultimate in sophistication. Following that was a knife-pleated mid-thigh skirt and blazer. Add a touch of embellishment on a simple silk shift dress and you are set for the season Photograph: Rex Features
Yohji Yamamoto sent models down the runway topped with sharp-fringed black bobbed wigs, to a Beatles soundtrack. The late show was well received. Origami-pleated dresses and double-breasted jackets and draped dresses in black were broken by pops of orange, blue, violet and yellow. Personal favourites were the voluminous full-skirted raw-edged prom-style dresses and the brightly coloured nails on the ends of black gloves Photograph: Patrick Kovarik/AFP/Getty Images
