The setting for the Hermès show was the long wood-panelled library of the Lycée Henri IV. It had been filled with more than 100 different study chairs and leather sofas, arranged to leave a pathway for the models. Every look in this 38-exit collection was strong – the dream wardrobe for any woman craving Parisian chic Photograph: François Guillot/AFP
Designer Christophe Lemaire expertly combines luxury and desirability with practicality. As expected, the leather pieces stood out, but it was this shearling-lined panelled coat that was top of our wish list Photograph: Pixelformula/sipa / rex features/SIPA
Marc Jacobs checked into Hotel Louis Vuitton. The extravagant set took the shape of a hotel corridor lined with 48 doors, shown in the round. Models entered the corridor from their 'rooms' in various stages of boudoir undress: silky negligée dresses trimmed in exquisite lace, French knickers, furs, and an opera coat over a dress whose hem had been dipped in gold sequins Photograph: Rex Features/Rex Features
All the models – including Kate Moss, who returned to the Vuitton catwalk for the first time since SS12 – wore disheveled, cropped black wigs that gave the impression they were room-hopping or leaving incognito in a hurry. This was boudoir dressing, saucy and debauched, for a champagne lifestyle. Underwear as outerwear is now sure to become a mainstream trend again Photograph: Rex Features/Rex Features
This was Vionnet's first official on-schedule show. It was a collection that fused the signature Grecian draping of Madame Vionnet with a graphic pop-art-inspired statement. Lichtenstein's pixelation technique was cited as a reference for this punched leather top (above) – its design forms a face when viewed for afar. Accents of bright yellow underlined the pop-art theme and came in kidassia fur on a jacket and skirt Photograph: PR
The finale gowns drew from the archive of the house, with the double-drape technique clearly evident. The look was kept modern with the inclusion of a kidney-shaped metal belt Photograph: PR
Never underestimate the power of polka dots as a mood enhancer – especially paired with stripes. Miuccia Prada liberally sprinkled colourful polka dots throughout the collection, on coats, dresses and neckerchiefs. Striped long socks were teamed with metallic boots that looked like they once belonged to a witch from Oz. They contrasted perfectly with the harsh urban environment of the black industrial-mesh clad set, reminiscent of a busy city Photograph: Martin Bureau/AFP
A protection theme came through in the parka-inspired coats. Given a Miu Miu makeover, they riffed on the quilted lining of a traditional boy's parka but were cut in a feminine shape and cinched at the waist with a utilitarian belt. The quirky, colourful accessories and feminine silhouette offset the blackness Photograph: Martin Bureau/AFP
