Paris fashion week: The best of the shows

When Marc Jacobs does it right he hits the ball right out of the park. The fetish themed Louis Vuitton show was a home run and then some. Centre stage four wrought-iron elevators, each manned by a uniformed bell hop, delivered models on to the black marble 'hotel foyer' catwalk where they strutted in dominatrix caps, rubberized stockings and even a tweedy take on a french maid ensemble. All very Charlotte Rampling in 'The Night Porter'. It wasn't all suspenders and pvc, Amber Valletta shone in a blue paillette skirt and shrunken cashmere sweater (finished with a black patent corset obvs), the new Lockit bag was held tight to wrists by diamond studded handcuffs, and the piece de resistance? Kate Moss! In hotpants! Smoking a cigarette!
Photograph: Jo Jones/Helen Seamons

Elegance reigned supreme at Miu Miu. A vision of forties grace glided past views of the Eiffel Tower in Paris' newest show venue- Palais d'Iena. The silhouette centred on the exaggerated shoulder that has, quite literally, been big in Paris all week. Ladylike pencil skirts were decorated with fitted crepe bow-peplums or twists of fur that also appeared as shrugs. The shoes kept it the right side of costume drama - glittery, peep-toe shoe boots in two tone gold/pistachio and silver/coral combos. Final word goes to the dresses, beautifully decorated with bird or lily of the valley motifs which were picked out in sequins for evening - trust Miuccia Prada to risk gilding the lily and pull it off.
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

There were various interpretations of the set at Chanel, from fire and brimstone volcanic aftermath to an eerily foggy 'Sleepy Hollow' forest. Models entered through two giant squares of white light situated at each end of the boardwalk catwalk that snaked through the Grand Palais over glittering black rock and shrouded in dry ice. This was a collection of divine tailoring with a masculine/feminine twist. This current reincarnation of the classic Chanel tweed jacket was fused with a blazer and pared with straight-cut rolled-hem trousers. The colour palette remained dark and gothic throughout, punctuated by a brief flash of emerald and ruby tweed and peacock blue sequins. Notable looks were styled with boyish flat boots or a low heel. King Karl has spoken, reader, and lo the assembled fashion editors did go forth and reassess their footwear.
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

Nicolas Ghesquière and Phoebe Philo have quite a lot in common; both love to experiment with their fabrics, both produced beautiful collections that oozed modern chic and both love the combination of hard mixed with a soft, feminine touch. Ghesquière wove thick tubes of fake leather to form jackets and vests that stood rigid against the softer fluid floral prints draped at the front of skirts and dresses. Philo continued to develop fabrics that were stiff and moulded into sharp shapes. This season her impeccably tailored coats made you gasp with admiration. Silk pleated skirts softened against the vertical leather panels that also appeared on the sharp tailored trousers. There’s nothing wrong with dancing to the beat of your own drum if you have the fashion world eating out of the palm of your hand.
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

The mix of webbed knits, layered fishnet, photographic flower prints and exposed hoop skirts that appeared as if they had been blown in the wind gave the Yohji Yamamoto show a ‘punk meets historical costume’ flavour. Our favorite part was the beautiful black lace panel dresses and the models’ hair, which looked as if it had been spun on a candy floss wheel. The same hair-raising trend carried on through to Junya Watanabe, while Rei Kawakubo’s hair for Comme Des Garcons had a positively bonnet like feel. Straight and glossy is so last season!
Photograph: Helen Seamons/observer

It often falls to Alexander McQueen to pull off a showstopper and once again the label, with Sarah Burton at the helm, succeeded. With all the attention the royal wedding dress has grabbed this week the finale of this show was the perfect audition (or a missed opportunity by the Royals). Either way it was a picture editor’s dream as exquisitely beautiful white gowns (one with a train) hit the runway. Of course there was more to this collection than just dresses with a bridal sensitivity, but with speculation at fever pitch we feel duty bound to throw our hat in the ring and back Burton for the bid.
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

We can rely on Stella McCartney to understand exactly what a woman wants. When Stella does polka dot it’s sexy (think Robert Palmer’s Addicted to Love video). We saw body-conscious, tight, fitted dresses, cut to outline the body with sheer panels of hand-embroidered polka-dot tulle exposing just the right amount of flesh. Dresses were interspersed with manly tailoring and sumptuous knitwear worn with a wool dress or a slouchy trouser and flat loafers (although we are not convinced about the loafers). This was all served up within the beautiful rooms of the Opéra national de Paris
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

Loewe’s British designer Stuart Vevers’ stylishly slick show experience started upon entering the dark courtyard lit by hundreds of candles at Ecole de Médecine. Every detail was beautifully thought through, from the most delicious canapés of cheese soufflé and lobster risotto to the wine sipped from delicately engraved glasses, a few of which seemed to be heading into the handbags of the watching fashion editors. The seating was French café style tables set along the edge of the catwalk and after feeding and watering his audience the designer really could do no wrong. Showing an exquisite collection with a sexy secretary air, from the tie-front shirts worn with neat pencil skirts, to the vibrant red, blue and gold leather coat dresses, dotted with perfectly formed handbags. The end of the month heralds the opening of the new Loewe shop on Mount Street, we must remember to leave room for a snack or two ...
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

YSL showed a collection of two halves, another of the season’s continuing themes. First up, Prince of Wales check tailoring for day, teamed with patent black loafer wedge hybrids (the loafer is enjoying a renaissance, it featured at Stella McCartney too in an flat ankle boot incarnation). The collection’s finale was dazzling white with gold chain details - pure Studio 54. Colour was sparse, one pop of regal purple and a dash of cobalt, the scene-stealing was left to the closing exit - a huge marabou feather jacket and palazzo pants tied up with a bow belt. It looked destined for the tour wardrobe of Florence Welch, who sat front row.
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer

You could blame it on the drop in temperature: hats were big news in the fall collections. At Lanvin, Alber Elbaz chose large brimmed Quaker style hats to top off the opening tailored looks. The result was a strong silhouette. Sonia Rykiel meanwhile, sent models sashaying down the runway wearing tartan, Fair Isle and fisherman knits with a traditional tweed country hat. The most elegant hats were seen on the heads of Karlie Kloss et al at the rather somber John Galliano fall show. Milliner Stephen Jones’ hats fitted tightly to the head in exquisite 30’s styles or balanced on top in delicate lace swirls. We are glad to see the fashion pack are one step ahead – we spotted a bright pink fedora by Masion Michel (Parisian couture milliner owned by Chanel) in the audience
Photograph: Helen Seamons/Observer