Non-believers in the padded jacket, this season’s coat of coats, should look to Topshop’s creative director, Kate Phelan, for help if they’re still on the fence over whether to get one. It represents “a new sense of heightened reality happening in fashion – an evolution from normcore”, she said at the shows. The high-low of coats, a mix of basic and glamour and symbolic of the way fashion has embraced practicality (see sportswear, the rise of flats and luxe trainers). As reported here, padded coats, successors to the original Puffa jacket, are this season’s must-have. And why not? Practical. Waterproof, sometimes, and no longer the preserve of Millets (although you could do worse than getting something serious from North Face). From Balenciaga to Raf Simons, it is the coat to wear this season. Here are four types to find which one works for you.
The faux-fur couture coat
Half the trick is in the styling with this one. Off-the-shoulder, like you would with a fur coat, and hung over your arms. See Balenciaga under the tenure of Demna Gavsalia, whose red, cropped jacket was the breakout star of the autumn catwalks. Topshop’s version, which comes ready-off-shoulder, feels like a mite too committed (draping should only be an option) but it’s cheap and works with anything high-necked. View it as winter’s answer to the Bardot top.
The norms’ padded coat
AKA the insider’s choice. The fashion crowd are fans of Moncler jackets in the New York blizzards at the January shows, and while the tone feels a little exchange-student, if you lose the belted waist it automatically shifts it into grownup territory. The key here is pops of colour at either end (hair and boot, frayed hem and lipstick), which suggest there is something more interesting below. There are also, generally, cheaper versions floating around at Millets, Blacks and Uniqlo, ideal if your mind isn’t yet made up.
The over-oversized coat
Oversized is another major trend this season. Too long sleeves. Too long hems. XXL when you’re not. The good news is that this isn’t exclusive to Vetements, who coined the concept for the millennial age. Raf Simons oversized his entire menswear collection and Rihanna wore it. Some (The Mail) argued that she went for something this big in summer as a way of self-protection (she had been previously booed for lip-syncing. They suggested her coat was a PR wall).
The duvet
An actual eiderdown appeared at the Alexander McQueen show. Floral, cream, embroidered, the model wrapped it round her shoulders and walked down the catwalk like she had been woken up by a fire alarm. Bit much, perhaps: Stella McCartney’s caramel version which was more duvet-inspired than anything else. These are oversized, cocooned, but are more about comfort than comedy. Puffa has some which are cropped and open in weird places (under the arm) but affordable and nicely Nasa-ish.
