And that was dinner. We went down to Pompei's Grotto down by Fisherman's Wharf. Nothing to write home about, which is a shame because it's the point of the blog. Had a small cup of clam chowder and then the crab linguine plus a couple of beers. It's fairly average and expensive - it came to $111. Oh well, we just needed something to eat. It's been another long, long day. Thanks for reading and thanks for tipping. Tomorrow is San Francisco. Get thinking. Night.
We're now having some food down at Fisherman's Wharf. My word, we're tired. Tomorrow if anyone wants to recommend sleeping, that would be great.
Ok, we're in the San Remo hotel which is in North Beach. Interesting place, that's what I'll say. The room is tiny but at least there are some raisins by the two twin beds. Makes you feel at home. Come back, Discovery Inn, all is forgiven!
Status update: tired, in need of food and beer.
SAN FRANCISCO, WE ARE IN YOU!
We've just driven over the Golden Gate Bridge and are heading to the San Remo hotel. A full eight hours after that bloody Giants game. Where should we eat? Send your tips here or to @jacobsteinberg.
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Bolinas is calling
We're driving through the winding roads on Highway 1. Paul says it's just the most brilliant thing. This car is swerving more than Ryan Giggs as it turns the corners. The view is, as expected, excellent. We can see the Pacific Ocean. Be careful going in, mind you. Photographer Dan has warned us about the great whites lurking. He knows someone who got bitten. Meanwhile, we're listening to hip hop.
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Recap: The journey so far...
Day 4: Distance travelled so far, Eureka-Petaluma: 234 miles
Expected distance, Eureka-SF: 271 miles
Begins: The Discovery Inn, a small motel in Eureka, in a room that won't lock. They rammed a chair up by the door. Breakfast was in the last lumber camp-style cookhouse in America. But it was actually in Samoa. California.
Next stop: A quick gander at sleepy Ferndale before hitting the Avenue of Giants, where the boys drove through a giant redwood tree.
Lunch: Aiming for the mom 'n' pop style diner of the Bluebird Cafe in Hopland, which is actually in wine country, and smacking their lips at the prospect of an elk burger, but it was closed. So they settled for a mighty fine pizza in Piazza Campovida.
Next stop: Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville. Where Jacob might have been affected by a sudden rush of sun to the head because he jumped in a VERY FAMOUS director's swimming pool. The life guard was not amused. The phrase “swimming with the fishes” was not used.
Now: En route to San Francisco via Highway 1 and looking for a place to stay in Fog City...
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Suggestions coming in for places to stay in SF
Place to stay suggestion: Metro Hotel
It is cheap, hip, and not in the middle of the Union Square craziness. The rooms are small but it is a fun spot. Divizadero Street has a lot of great places on it to eat and shop. You are also close to Height Street (good and bad). The Page which is a pretty decent dive is just down the street as is Toronado, a fantastic beer bar, and Mavin which has pretty solid cocktails.
Jacob: The scenery has changed again. We're now in the rolling hilly expanses just outside Petaluma. Not green here. It's largely a hazel hue thanks to the sun but it's still beautiful. I think Clark Kent grew up around here.
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Dan adds:
We are on hwy 1. Just left Point Reyes Station
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And we're now in the suburbs. The houses look expensive here...
There's a lobby starting to form pressing for the crew to stop in Bolinas
The Peoples Republic of Bolinas is organizing a demonstration to welcome you to their city-state...
@AndyPietrasik - have them stop in Bolinas and stay at smiley's. they don't want to get to s.f. this time of day
Very calm at the moment. Feel in a bit of a haze. There's a strong chance I might drift off before we get to Highway 1. We're almost at the turn-off for these spectacular views people have been talking about...
San Francisco bound
Jacob, Paul and Dan are now heading for the bright lights of Fog City - no doubt to sup on the dregs of the party after the Giants beat the Oakland As today. And, before you start, yes, they're going via the scenic route, Highway 1.
They're looking for a place to stay first though. The San Remo has been mentioned in an article on budget San Fran hotels written for the Guardian by Bridget Gleeson, a contributor to the excellent DiscoverAmerica.com blog. Jacob is erring towards The Touchstone Hotel.
Can anyone reccomend these or suggest anywhere else?
You know the form - tips most welcome in the comments, @JacobSteinberg, #TwiTrips, @GuardianTravel
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Francis Ford Coppola
Hello again. We've just been at Francis Ford Coppola Winery. A bit of a weird place. There's a lot of tat on sale and some fairly cool Godfathers stuff. Wine tasting, too, obviously. Didn't bother with any wine. It's like a holiday resort though - there's a pool and a pool bar. Paul and Dan made me go and get my swimming shorts and fall backwards into the pool, leading the lifeguard to ask whether I was meant to be in there. Why? Is it a viewing pool or something?
Back on 101 now and heading towards 1, as suggested by readers in the comments. Also listening to WHY? - I believe they've been making a playlist for this trip.
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Francis Ford Coppola Winery, Geyserville
Photographer Dan reports:
Jacob just jumped into Francis Ford Coppola's pool and then the lifeguard came over and yelled at him.
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Arrived at Coppola Winery, Geyserville. More in a mo...
Music update - now listening to Jamie T
Tuneage
While the lads are on the road again for some 30 miles, on their way to Coppola's Winery in Geyserville, there's just time for a bit of tuneage from the songs you've been sending in via Twitter and below the line.
Thanks to everyone, and keep them coming via the usual channels @JacobSteinberg, TwiTrips, @GaurdianTravel
Baseball final
Photographer Dan is now leaping about the place and making a general exhibition of himself after finding out that the Giants have won.
There's also a Subway opposite this restaurant - a tough choice, I'm sure you can imagine. This restuarant also has a winery down the street.
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Pizza review
And that was lunch at Piazza de Campovida - a pizzeria and taverna - as recommended by @daisywaisy). Went for the pepperoni. Pepperoni with buffalo mozarella with black olives and tomato sauce. It was like a pizza you'd get in Italy and light too. Very tomatoey. The pepperoni cost $16 while the margherita was $12. There are also a selection of larger plates and paninis. We're just waiting to pay up and then I think we're heading to Geyserville/Geezerville next.
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Route rage
While the guys are busy troughing pizza, there's all manner of route rage going on below in the comments. All started by one loose direction...
Plus one more vote for doing at least part of Highway 1......I am just not sure where the best place is to cut over from 101 if you are still in Hopland.
Seems like it might be easier to head back back north about 8-10 miles, and take the 253 across towards Manchester. it only adds on about 25 minutes further than going down to "Dutcher Creek Rd".
Also, on yesterday's blog I suggested getting a view of the Golden Gate Bridge from Hawk Hill -- depending on what the daylight is like when you arrive in SF, it might be worth doing it on your way in this evening...rather than coming back out tomorrow. And you can also get some great shots from Battery Spencer which is on the road up to Hawk Hill....indeed from Battery Spencer, it sometimes feels like you can almost reach out and touch the bridge.
Here's an article that mentions 5 great places to view the bridge from.
@Paulk14 - there's no way they're getting to the coast that way; mountain view road from Boonville to Manchester is a nightmare. their first option is really to go through Guerneville from Healdsburg or Windsor
@Paulk14 - Don't take 253!! It will take you to Boonville and then it's a cursed windy steep drive to Manchester, which is in the middle of nowhere. I suggest you head south and take River Road, just north of Santa Rosa, along the Russian River, through Guerneville to Jenner and then head south on 1. That way you'll avoid the Santa Rosa traffic this afternoon.
Ball game latest
Drive-through tree (reprise)
Apologies that this is a little out of sequence, but we've just received the pictures of the guys driving through a tree in Avenue of Giants - and here's the proof (@daisywaisy among others). I know - it's almost like animation.
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As we came into Hopland, the sign said the population here is 817 people. It's very peaceful.
We're sitting outside - in the shade - and there's a light breeze. The waiter is going to bring some beers to taste. We've also very much into wine country. I would like to taste some wine.
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It's also suddenly got very hot. Readers, get ready to see some men in shorts.
We're in Hopland. Hello Hopland. Unfortunately, the Blue Bird Cafe is shut, so we've strolled across the road to the Piazza for some pizza.
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More from Dan: We just got into Hopland. Walking to Bluebird Cafe now.
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Fresh from the Nerve Centre
The power of the lobby!
This just in from photographer Dan:
I'll make sure we get out to HWY 1. We will do the Petaluma route. Head into the hills from Petaluma, past Nincasio and into Point Reyes. Head south from there. I used to ride my bike on that route into San Francisco when I was in college.
Route wrangling
Lobby forming for the guys to get off 101 and onto Highway 1 before SF from @fulhamfan, @HeckYeah, @FoolishMuzzies, @DWillis108 among others. What does everyone else think?
Puhleeze at least do the last 25 miles into SF along Highway 1!
You can cut across from Petaluma to Point Reyes Station then down to Muir Beach via Bolinas [on the side]. It should only add about 30 minutes to your driving time.
Marin Headlands [via Sausalito] is a great suggestion that's been made already.
If you head back to 101 via Fairfax, I'd be honored to treat you to ice creams at the infamous Fairfax Scoop.
Bluebird Cafe addition
From @daisywaisy
Blue Bird Cafe has a giant moose head on the wall. Cross the street and go to Naughty Boy Vineyards tasting room and see their moose as well.
Naughty Boy Vineyards tasting room - that might have sealed the fate of this blog. Cell coverage may become patchy again
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Giants update
Just in from AT&T Park San Fran
We're trying to get to Hopland to the Blue Bird Cafe.
As recommended by our good friend @fantod. It's in wine country (Hopland being the clue, oh no, that's beer), in Mendocino county. From what we can gather, it's been around since the 50s and is in a nice old two-storey, whitewashed clapboard building with a porch and a balcony - like you see in the Westerns. The reviews say it does good burgers.
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Lunch and music
It's a bit of a drive to the Coppola Winery in Geyserville, and the crew will be stopping for lunch on the way, so any suggestions will be devoured - to the usual places
More updates later, but in the meantime, here's a playlist that Berkeley band WHY? have sent in. You can add to it, if you like, on this playlist in Spotify.
Land of the giants
We lost reception while we were in the Avenue of the Giants, which we've now gone through. We're back on 101 now. All in all those trees are some big trees.
We managed to stop in one place and make it down to the river bank to have a dip. We've driven through a tree too. Not entirely sure it was worth $6. Now back in the car and have my shoes off. Feet are drying. We've set the SatNav for Geyserville, and it's about two hours' away so send in lunch tips between here and there! Please!
Music: Donovan.
Redwoods
We've just had a first glimpse of the Avenue of the Giants. These trees are tall. I tried climbing one. Giving myself a 7/10 for the effort. We're reading down to Myers Flat now to get more of the Giants. Incidentally that infernal Giants game kicks off in an hour. I think these Giants are better.
Avenue of the Giants
What we've learned about Avenue of the Giants - is mostly what the website and Wikipedia have told us. So here goes:
This world-famous scenic drive is a 31-mile portion of old Highway 101 in Humboldt Redwoods State Park
Coast Redwoods overshadow the road and surround the area. It is from these towering trees that the Avenue of the Giants takes its name.
The Immortal Tree is over 950 years old, and is currently around 250ft (76m) tall, though originally it was much taller.
Avenue of the Giants features three trees that visitors can drive through. The southernmost of these trees, Chandelier Tree, is located in Drive-Thru Tree Park in the town of Leggett.
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I should add that I've been carrying around the Wimbledon bag they give you when you turn up to cover the tennis at SW19, so the strawberries are a good fit.
Health drive
You might not have actually been able to guess from this trip, but I am a very healthy eater. All about the smoked fish and salads. So imagine my delight when we stumbled across a fruit stand on the side of the road. They get their fruit from the central valley and we've bought white grapes, strawberries and cherries, all for $11. The strawberries taste as if they've been bathing in sugar for the last week. Music? The Eels. Destination? Avenue of the Giants.
Ferndale, CA
And that was Ferndale. A quick stop in this old Victorian town. Very quiet but there was a cracking little antiques store, selling relics from the 30s, 40s and 50s and so on. If I had more space in my bag, I would have snapped something up. Instead we had to rely on snapper Dan.
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Shuffle
We're playing a game whereby I flick through Paul's iPod without looking and tell him to shout stop. Not sure why this keeps happening but we keep landing on Neil Diamond.
Meanwhile more tunes coming in via #TwiTrips
Do It Again - Steely Dan
Sunspots - Julian Cope
Hillbilly Highway - Steve Earle
Keep them coming and we'll share the playlist via Spotify later in the day
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The plan
We're going to try to head to Ferndale and then go through the redwoods at the Avenue of the Giants. Then we'll head down 101 towards Geyserville in wine country and try to get to the Coppola Wine Movie Gallery. We've had shouts to head to Highway 1 but it will probably add on a fair bit of driving which doesn't seem ideal.
Meeting the locals
We've just stopped by the Humboldt County Bureau of Tourism after being contacted by @redwoodbigfoot on Twitter. In there, Megan gave us a load of ideas for the drive and now we're going to check out the big mansion that @fantod suggested we see in Eureka. Then the drive begins.
@JacobSteinberg @GuardianTravel We are at 1034 2nd Street in Old Town (corner of L Street, near the Carson Mansion and Humboldt Bay).
— RedwoodBigfoot (@RedwoodBigfoot) May 30, 2013
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Trees
@daisywaisy is demanding the guys drive into (and out of) a tree and wants photographic proof.
Another regular tipster Paulk14 suggests these places to do it
Chandelier Tree is in Legget, which is where Highway 1 splits from 101, and heads over to the coast.
Also worth doing, as it is on your route anyway, is the Avenue of the Giants, which is about 30 minutes south of Eureka, just off 101.
Chandelier Drive-Thru Tree
You can't miss this....
Tunes...
@GuardianTravel @JacobSteinberg #TwiTrips Must have Old Crow Medicine Show. Any of their songs really, but start with Wagon Wheel!
— we are telescopic (@wearetelescopic) May 30, 2013
And here it is...although it appears to be about North Carolina
The bill arrives - $38 between three.
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Guardian angel
@fantod is up bright and bushy-tailed this morning with more tips for the crew.
Hey guys,
Sorry to hear about your difficulties in Eureka. Wish I had thought to direct you to the Eureka Inn but by the time I thought of it it was too late. Too bad about missing Brick & Fire but I'm glad 511 fit the bill - still haven't been there. Glad you liked Trinidad - if I could afford to live there I would!
If only you had more time! Still, you've seen a bit of the area (and the West Coast in general) and maybe some day you'll return when you have more leisure to explore. I hope you're keeping all the suggestions you've received!
On your way south, do try to stop at Humboldt Redwoods State Park. Try to get off the highway and drive a mile or two up Mattole Valley Road to the Founders Grove area.
Lunch ideas:
The Blue Bird Cafe in Hopland. Excellent burgers, including ones made with game meats like elk, wild boar, etc.GREAT milkshakes. And there's a new beer bar across the street on the old Hopland Brewing company (now Mendocino Brewing) building.
The Hamburger Ranch and BBQ in Cloverdale. Great burgers and some of the best 'cue around.
Bistro Ralph on the plaza in Healdsburg. This is where the local winemakers go for a great meal out. Pricey but fantastic.
If you have time stop by the Russian River Brewery in Santa Rosa and have a glass of Pliny the Elder, one of the most sought-after and hard to get beers in the west.
Anyhow it's been fun following you and feeding you tips. Enjoy the rest of your trip, and come back with more time some day!
We're being rivalled in the road trip stakes now. A family has just arrived at the Cookhouse and they've driven from San Diego in a rental car.
"That's a long way away," says the waiter.
Right, but not as long as us, is it? We win. Go us.
The music in here is banjo-based and I'm enjoying the vibe. This morning we were wondering whether or not to just have a croissant ... an hour later and Paul's had three pancakes. "That might have been a mistake."
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Breakfast in Samoa
So we've decided to drive up to the Samoa Cookhouse. Enjoyed driving over the three rollercoasterish bridges from Eureka. It's only 10 minutes away and here we are at the Cookhouse. It was established circa 1893 and there are only six more people in here. The sign at the front says it's the last lumber camp-style cookhouse in America. They're big on their logging inside. It's *almost* blogging.
We've just been served pancakes, sausages and scrambled eggs. I'll steer clear of the scrambled eggs. Haven't had any since they made me violently ill when I was five or six. "This is a true working man's American breakfast," says photographer Dan.
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Snappy tunes
Photographer Daniel has sent in his Cali soundtrack, and it goes like this:
Sonoma County band: The Velvet Teen - No Star
SF bands: Mikal Cronin- Weight; Ty Segall - Goodbye Bread; Terry Malts - I Do; The Trainwreck Riders - Delia
We'll put those up on Spotify soon, but in the meantime, here's The Velvet Teen (cos they're close to Sonoma)
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We'd like to thank...
By the way thanks to @Fantod for saving our bacon in Eureka. We're just loading the car now and will either head to breakfast at Los Bagels here in Eureka, or the Samoa Cookhouse, which is 10 minutes away by car, across Humboldt Bay in Samoa.
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Driving music
To get everyone in the mood, here's a blast of music as recommended by @Speedicut
I have a musical suggestion for your upcoming stretch from the Cal border south to SF. The venerable American indie band Camper Van Beethoven just recently issued La Costa Perdida (The Lost Coast) using as a theme that very northern Cal strip of coast. Highlights include "Come Down the Coast" "Too High for the Love-In" (with the line of the year "Bring to me the anti-venom. And make me a sandwich."), "Northern California Girls" and the title track. Great humor and musicianship. They're from Cal and the sound captures that regional spirit well. In other words it grooves. Easily downloadable (legally) from many websites. A must.
Let us know what your Cali roadtrip mix would be
Shower traumas
Just got out of the shower and I'd like to meet the guy who designed the showers in this place and clump him round the head with a large mallet. I'm only 5ft 10in so this shouldn't have been a problem, but turns out that the shower head is only suitable for people around 5ft 8in and shorter. The only way to get my head under the water was by squatting. The indignity. Alternatively, you had the option of twisting it so it was horizontal, at which point you were treated to the joys of hot water shooting directly at your neck and not much else.
Help Jacob and the gang on their way down the Pacific coast by posting tips to the usual places - below in the comments field, via Twitter @JacobSteinberg, @GuardianTravel, #TwiTrips, or on GuardianWitness.
We thank you
Good morning, Eureka!
Trinidad bay
Hello and welcome to day four – I think it's day four – of the Guardian's romp down the west coast of America. We're currently in Eureka, a small coastal town off Highway 101. We're staying in the Discovery Inn, a small motel where a double room costs $75. Admittedly it's a double room without a lock. We've rammed a chair up by the door just to be sure and the car is parked right outside. For about the last hour, the person in the room above has been making some weird noises.
We're around 270 miles from San Francisco, our final destination, and we're aiming to be there around 6pm this evening. That won't happen, of course, but it's always good to have goals in life. We've got a lot of driving to get through again and a lot of tips. It should be a smooth ride today. We have plans for plenty of stop-offs along the way; last night a Eureka local overheard our conversation in a restaurant and advised stopping off at Ferndale, so we might do that. But keep your tips coming. Time is on our side – famous last words.
Yesterday was an experience. Overall we drove 414 miles and spent around nine hours on the road. We picked up a bit of flak for our dream of making it to today's Giants game, a dream we've long abandoned, and for a long time this blog became the worst blog in the world as we drove through the mountains and the fog on Highway 101 without any signal. Actually my phone still has no signal. Oh good. We saw a lot, though, and nothing was better than the small town of Trinidad. I urge you to check it out.
Discovery Inn, Eureka
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A few miles [7-8?] after Olema [that's the Hwy 1 junction with Sir Francis Drake Blvd] you'll see the first and smallest of 2 possible unmarked right turns to Bolinas [it's on a downhill after a grove of eucalyptus]. The 2nd and bigger turn is a mile further at an unmarked crossroads/4-way just before the Bolinas lagoon. If you reach the lagoon you've gone too far.
Say Hi to 'Flossie' at Smileys.
There will be flags waving...and bands marching...!