As a local train travels near Tennozan, a mountain that straddles Kyoto and Osaka prefectures, passengers can catch sight of a factory with huge letters reading "Yamazaki" on its wall. That is Suntory's Yamazaki Distillery, where the company launched its first domestically produced full-fledged whisky, "Shirofuda," (white label) in 1929.
Nine decades later, Japanese whisky is recognized as among the best in the world. The hometown of Japanese whisky has drawn enthusiasts from home and abroad.
'Breathing' barrels
Stepping into a storage facility holding more than 2,000 barrels, I was overwhelmed by the aroma that filled the place. Perfect tranquility reminiscent of a forest dominated the cellar, which makes visitors feel as if each barrel is breathing.
"Exactly, the 'breathing' of the barrel is the source of the whisky's flavor," the factory manager, Takahisa Fujii, 57, agreed with a nod after I voiced my thoughts. "Extracts derived from the brewing and distilling processes and various ingredients dissolved from the material of barrel itself are condensed and matured as water and alcohol evaporate."
Whisky makers carefully brew materials such as germinated malt and further heat them in a distillation pot to produce unblended whisky with an alcohol content of about 70%. After adjusting it to about 60%, they put it in a cask, and let it mature year by year.
Barrels are mainly made from North American white oak or Japanese mizunara oak. Some were previously used for wine or sherry production. A wine barrel made from French oak can make an unblended whisky taste light and mild, while a Spanish oak barrel for sherry can create an unblended whisky with a sweet and rich scent.
By blending these various unprocessed whiskies, they produce a brilliant one, with a distinct amber color.
"There are also unblended whiskies with strong characteristics that can completely change the taste of an entire whisky with just one drop," Fujii said. "The essence of whisky production is how to create and make the best use of the various kinds of unblended whisky."
Craftsmanship
In the Yamazaki district of Osaka Prefecture, the Katsura River, the Uji River and the Kizu River merged into the Yodo River. The humidity there is suitable for maturing unprocessed whisky, and the spring water enjoyed by the great tea master Sen no Rikyu (1522-1591) gushes out.
Taking note of this environment, Suntory founder Shinjiro Torii (1879-1962) started building the distillery in 1923. He put his passion into making whisky that would suit Japanese palates and created famous whiskies such as "Kakubin" and "Old Whisky," which paved the way for the Western liquor culture to take root in the Showa era (1926-1989).
Domestic whisky, however, entered a "long winter" in the 1980s when the growing popularity of such drinks as the shochu highball (shochu mixed with soda water) diversified drinking styles.
The turning point came in 2003 when Suntory's Yamazaki 12 Year Old won the gold prize for the first time in a worldwide alcoholic beverage competition. The whisky uses only unblended whisky that has been matured for more than 12 years. Since then, the reputation of delicate and harmonious Japanese whisky has continuously increased abroad and has become very popular.
According to trade statistics of the Finance Ministry, the export value of Japanese whisky in 2018 reached about 15 billion yen, more than 10 times the 2008 amount of around 1.4 billion yen.
A tour of the distillery is so popular that chances to make reservations can run out several months ahead, with foreign visitors being frequent participants.
"The Japanese people are known for excellent craftsmanship," said a 32-year-old Canadian while tasting unprocessed whisky.
Almost 100 years
At the end of the tour, participants learn how to make whisky mixed with soda water. Slight differences in temperature and the foaming of the soda water can make the beverage even tastier.
"By conveying how to enjoy whisky, we want to hand [the essence of] domestic whisky over to the next generation as we approach 100," Fujii said.
At home, I tried to make whisky mixed with soda water as I was taught. The whisky flowed into the glass with a gurgle, and then the ice cube in the glass made a cracking sound. The scent wafted from the glass as if flowers were opening softly. Then the blissful time arrived, and with the long time it took to mature in mind, cheers!
-- How to get there
About a 10-minute walk west from JR Yamazaki Station or Hankyu Oyamazaki Station. Reservations are needed for a tour in which visitors can have a look at the exhibition facilities and experience tasting with a guide. The 80-minute tour for 1,000 yen is held every day, except the year-end and New Year holiday period. The 100-minute tour for 2,000 yen is available only on Saturdays, Sundays and national holidays. Reservations are taken by phone at (075) 962-1423, or online at https://www.suntory.co.jp/factory/yamazaki/info/
-- Extend your trip!
Asahi Beer Oyamazaki Villa Museum of Art
About a 10-minute walk from JR Yamazaki Station or Hankyu Oyamazaki Station. Asahi Breweries Ltd. bought a villa that had belonged to Shotaro Kaga (1888-1954), who was involved in the establishment of Nikka Whisky, and opened it as a brewery in 1996. An underground gallery, designed by architect Tadao Ando, displays paintings from Claude Monet's "Water Lilies" series and other works.
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