I seem to have spent most of this month dithering over whether or not to devote another article to organic wines. It’s been dubbed Organic September, so I know I ought to, but the problem is, so many organic wines, particularly the cheaper ones, are underwhelming.
So hooray for Aldi, which has managed to source the organic Fire Tree Sicilian Chardonnay (13.5%) for just £5.99: it’s attractively peachy and surprisingly fresh for a wine from such a hot climate. I’m not so keen on the same store’s over-porty Organic Primitivo (£7.99; 14.5% abv), though it would be fine with a slice of gorgonzola or other blue cheese.
There’s also a cracking muscadet from Bonnet-Huteau, Les Gautronnières Sèvre et Maine 2016 (£11 Tanners; 12.5% abv), which really shows the effect that organic and biodynamic viticulture and careful winemaking can have on a wine that’s often regarded as a bit – how shall I put this? – boring. I also love the single food pairing suggestion of a “St Pierre” (john dory), as if no other species of fish is suitable. (Obviously there is: oysters, for a start.)
Organic reds are rather more fertile hunting ground than whites. Harking back to last week’s column, here’s another wine that disguises its origins: Old Hands Organic Joven 2015 (£8.95 Lea & Sandeman, £9.99 Abel & Cole; 14% abv) is a lush, ripe, juicy monastrell (mourvèdre) from Yecla that looks – and tastes – more like an Australian red. At less than £10, it’s great value, too, as is Marks & Spencer’s cheery, gulpable Merinas Mesta Tempranillo Old Vines (£8; 14% abv), an organic red wine from Ucles that tastes like a young rioja “Good book club wine,” my notes say. And if you’re a malbec fan, you should enjoy the gutsy Vicien Malbec 2015 from high-altitude vineyards in Argentina’s Catamarca region (£9.95 Stone, Vine & Sun; 13.6% abv), which give it an exotically dark-fruited character.
Finally, a couple of immensely drinkable Languedoc reds: Domaine Saint Antonin’s Les Jardins 2016 (£9.90 Tanners; 14% abv), a lovely, supple syrah from Faugères; and La Grange de Quatre Sous’ Cuvée Garsinde (13.5% abv), an unusual (for the Languedoc) blend of malbec, syrah and cabernet franc that is stocked at £11.05 by the splendid Vine Trail. Vine Trail mainly supplies restaurants, but you can order by the case (which can be mixed). That may daunt some of you, but I do again urge you to form a wine-buying group, so you can take advantage of more interesting suppliers.
