With a name like Orca Baker & Butcher, you'd be forgiven for expecting a seafood cross-over. Swing by branch no. 2, at just-opened Lasalle's Avenue community mall (1st branch: Ramkhamhaeng 184; 3rd branch-to-be: Gateway Bangsue) and with its glass walls, brushed concrete columns and floor, exposed ductwork and air of cleanliness, the inside does feel a little like an aquarium, albeit one with free WIFi.
But the only thing this killer whale is threatening with extinction is the concept of Italian dining around town that doesn't defer to Thai taste.
Another wrong impression one is apt to get in Orca's Lasalle location, evidently warmly welcomed by the prosperous residents of swanky nearby moobans, is that it doubles as a deli. That would be dodgy as this swish village of huts is anchored by a full-scale Villa Market (along with UNIQLO, Starbucks, and whatnot) which isn't exactly scruffy on imported foodstuffs.
Orca arrays three large refrigerated display cabinets stacked with: finest steaks tightly wrapped in cling film, including three USA cuts (tenderloin, striploin, ribeye); cured hams, smoked fish & pâtés; and whole cheeses.
It transpires, however, that they're all awaiting the top Italian restaurant-trained Thai chefs' summons to the kitchen for cooking and serving, not weighing, packing and placing in anyone's trolley. The abundance is explained by the 100% Thai-owned importer and distributor of gourmet produce mainly from Italy and Japan (another project is Ryoshi Sushi restaurants) behind the burgeoning brands.
This salivating news immediately focuses attention on the 100% illustrated menu.
Appetizers range Bruschetta (170) (Pain d'Antan bread, cherry tomatoes, red onion, basil) to Seabass Fish ‘n' Chips (250). A page of salads includes Citrus-Cured Salmon (320) and Prawn & Avocado (320), yielding a fresh fusion of smoky grilled prawn, earthy avocado, tart red onion, juicy green heirloom tomato, and mild honey-mustard dressing (380). The deft touch turns out to be a signature feature.
There are three soups – French Onion, Wild Mushroom, and Soup of the Day – then eight pasta dishes, of which we plumped for Spaghetti Chittara Seafood (450), prawns, Australian mussels, US Manila clams, Kalamata olives, sautéed with eggy spaghetti drizzled with olive oil, oregano, a pinch of chilli and a dab of shrimp paste. More characteristic harmony of subtle flavour and aroma.
Baked in the fire-breathing pizza oven, the new thin crust Burrata Picante (520), tomato sauce, mozzarella and chorizo pie, bestowed a whole burrata in the middle, is bliss.
Main courses range Baked Seabass White Wine (450) to BBQ Pork Rib with Cheese (390). A smattering of "rice in a bowl" Asian recipes using stir-fried prime Australian beef (220) range peppercorn sauce to tamarind sauce.
The biggest draw, however, is the steaks; supremely succulent and tender slabs of meat grilled to order (the menu includes a "doneness" glossary so you don't get a bloody shock when you order "medium rare").
There's nothing fancy about them. The US striploin is just awesome meat seasoned with salt & pepper and olive oil before charcoal grilling, and serving with rock salt, Borselaise red wine sauce and sautéed spinach with cream and almond. But they sure do make you drool.
Desserts include Belgian Pancake (180), the most popular, Affogato Vanilla Ice Cream with Espresso or Matcha (120), and Chocolate Lava Cake (180).
Chose from couch and sofa seating or sitting up to a dining table inside or alfresco.
Lasalle's Ave branch: 10:30-22:30. Tel. 02 181 1771
Ramkhamhaeng 184 branch: 09:00-21:00. Tel. 02 044 4793
