The colour, flavour, and satisfying texture of sweet potatoes seems to bring out that inner child: mine got quite playful and even came up with a pudding. The basic preparation is so easy and the baking fills the kitchen with wonderful aromas. You could eat the sweet potatoes straight away, quickly stuffed, and popped back into the still-hot oven for an almost-instant satisfying meal. Let the rest of the potatoes cool, then use them later in a colourful stew, a fragrant bake that can be served as a rather elegant vegetarian main or starter, and a creamy pudding with a crunchy salty-sweet topping.
To prepare your sweet potatoes
Buy your potatoes loose, to make sure each one is as perfect and uniform as possible. Buy organic for the deepest orange flesh and the best flavour.
14 medium sweet potatoes (about 250g each)
Olive oil
1 Gently wash the sweet potatoes, pat them dry, rub with olive oil, score once or twice with a pointed knife, and put them in a roasting tin, or tins.
2 Bake in a preheated oven at 200C/ 400F/gas mark 6, for 40-50 minutes, until tender to the point of a knife. Firm not squishy flesh is what you want. You might like to make a batch of stuffed sweet potatoes straight away, while the oven is still hot. Let the rest of them cool in their tin(s), then store them in the fridge until they are needed.
The quick supper: Sweet potatoes stuffed with spinach, red onion and halloumi (pictured above)
Lovely contrasting colours, textures and flavours here: bitter spinach, soft sweet potato and onion, and the crisp saltiness of the halloumi cheese.
Serves 4
1 tbsp olive oil
2 red onions, sliced
400g baby spinach leaves
4 whole roasted sweet potatoes
Halloumi cheese, coarsely grated
1 Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/gas mark 6. Heat the oil in a large saucepan, fry the onions until soft and slightly caramelised: about 10 minutes.
2 Add the spinach, cook for 2-3 minutes, stirring often, until tender. Remove from the heat and season.
3 Halve the sweet potatoes, place on a baking sheet. Lightly mash the flesh, keeping it inside the skins.
4 Divide the spinach mixture between the sweet potatoes, piling it up, then top each with halloumi cheese.
5 Bake for about 10 minutes, or until heated right through, and the halloumi is golden brown and crisp.
The versatile bake: Two-potato bake with red pepper sauce
I love this: the fragrance of the herbs as it cooks, the salty kick of the olives, the contrast in colour and flavour of the two potatoes, the scarlet sauce and the rocket leaves – and the fact that it’s perfectly happy to be a side dish, a starter, or the main event.
Serves 4
750g (ordinary) potatoes, scrubbed and cut into thin (5mm) slices
4 whole roasted sweet potatoes, skin removed
6 large garlic cloves
Olive oil
6 sprigs of rosemary, stems removed
6 sprigs of thyme, stems removed
2 handfuls pitted black olives
Salt and black pepper
For the sauce
3 red peppers, cored and roughly chopped
3 garlic cloves
250ml water
A dash of red wine vinegar
To serve
Rocket leaves
1 Boil the potato slices in water so they are just covered until just tender: about 10 minutes. Don’t let them get too soft. The drain well.
2 Now slice the sweet potatoes to a similar thickness.
3 Crush the garlic and mix with 6 tbsp olive oil.
4 Layer the two types of potato, the herbs, olives, salt and pepper, in a well-oiled, shallow casserole dish or baking tin, starting and ending with sweet potato, adding the garlic oil between the layers, and on top.
4 Bake, uncovered, at 200C/400F/gas mark 6 for about 30 minutes, or until sizzling hot and lightly crisped.
5 Meanwhile, make the sauce: simmer the red peppers, garlic and water until the pepper is tender. Puree, then season with salt, pepper and a dash of vinegar.
6 Serve the potato bake simply from the dish or cut into portions, place on small plates, pour some of the sauce around and garnish with some rocket leaves.
The surprising pud: Creamy sweet potato, coconut and lime fool with salted almonds
Sweet potatoes make an intriguing dessert. Alternative toppings are maple syrup and toasted almonds, dark grated chocolate or a preserved kumquat atop each portion with a swirl of the syrup. You do need the full-fat coconut milk for this.
Serves 4
2 whole roasted sweet potatoes, skins removed
1 can full-fat coconut milk, thick part on top only (don’t shake)
Grated rind and juice of 1 lime
For the topping
100g caster sugar
50g flaked almonds
Sea salt
1 First make the almond topping. Put the sugar into a medium-size heavy-based saucepan and heat gently for 2-3 minutes until it melts.
2 Add the almonds, and stir for another minute or two until the melted sugar is nut brown and the almonds golden. Remove from the heat at once and pour on to a piece of nonstick paper, spreading it out lightly. Sprinkle with coarse sea salt.
3 For the sweet potato cream, cut the potatoes into rough chunks, then mash thoroughly with a fork or blender.
4 Add the thick part of the coconut milk from the top of the tin, and the lime rind and juice, and beat or process until light and creamy, adding a bit more of the liquid coconut milk if necessary. Divide between 4 serving bowls.
5 Break up the almond crunch with your fingers, or crush with a rolling pin. Scatter on top of the puddings just before serving. You can chill this pudding in the fridge, but it’s best when freshly madeall light and creamy, as it thickens and become more solid when chilled.
The one-pot warmer: Sweet potato, red bean and tomato casserole
An easy, colourful stew that’s quick to make and comforting to eat. Serve just as it is, or with crumbled feta cheese or toasted pine nuts on top.
Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, sliced
2 red peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped
2 yellow peppers, deseeded and roughly chopped
2 large garlic cloves, sliced
4 whole roasted sweet potatoes, skinned and cubed
2 x 400g cans chopped tomatoes
1 x 400g can red kidney beans, drained and rinsed
500ml water or vegetable stock
1-2 tbsp sun-dried tomato paste
Dried red chilli flakes
Salt and black pepper
A handful of coriander, chopped (optional)
1 Heat the oil in a large saucepan or casserole, add the onions, peppers and garlic, stir well, cover and cook gently for 15 minutes, stirring from time to time.
2 Add the sweet potatoes, tomatoes, kidney beans and 500ml water or vegetable stock. Bring to the boil, then simmer for about 20 minutes.
3 Stir in the sun-dried tomato paste, dried red chilli flakes, plus some salt and pepper to taste.
4 Check the seasoning, then serve, topped with some fresh coriander, if you like.
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Rose Elliott’s New Complete Vegetarian (Harper Collins £25) is available from the Guardian Bookshop at £17.50.
