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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK

Photographing the northern lights in Swedish Lapland

Fredrik Borman and a huskie in camp
Fredrik Broman’s Aurora Safari Camp is a top spot for catching the northern lights. Photograph: Christopher Hunt

Fredrik Broman’s profession as a photographer has taken him around the world, but in the end the one place he longed to return to was his home village Lassbyn in Swedish Lapland. Having lived in Kenya for several years, he wanted to set up a safari at home and today runs the Aurora Safari Camp in the nearby Råne River Valley, while continuing his passion for photography by offering courses to guests from all over the world.

“Right now I’m in a boat overlooking whooper swans that are moving south. This part of the world has always been my New Zealand, so while travellers go to the other side of the world, I returned here,” he says.

The vast landscape, which has a rich wildlife and a strong Sami culture, is a popular retreat for people who want to escape the buzz of civilization. The site of the camp has no artificial light and makes it a top spot for catching the northern lights.

“It’s an activity in itself to experience the earth without artificial lights. All you hear is the sound of nature – and you get to see the stars. The Milky Way is just above you,” Fredrik says, adding that the northern lights, or the aurora borealis is a big bonus. “Aurora, meaning the Goddess of the Dawn, is a natural phenomenon we can’t rely on,” Fredrik says. “It is a big bonus when it appears, and when it does, this is the best spot to see it.”

Despite the rural location, guests sleep in comfortable Lavvu tents with beds, wooden floors and wood burners – it is a special sight to see the tents light up the camp in the dark. And there are plenty of activities on offer. Fredrik offers photographic workshops and expeditions, with some guests choosing a two-hour start-up course, while others request coaching throughout their stay.

This time of year Fredrik specialises in winter and low-light photography, as taking pictures in the cold climate demands a different kind of exposure. Guests follow him on location in the woods, on the frozen river, or on a more challenging adventure: to photograph the Siberian husky dogs while on a dog sledge.

“It’s amazing to experience the relationship between the dogs and their leader. The history around it is very special,” he says, highlighting the importance of storytelling in his photography. “Initially I teach people how to tell a story through the lens, and then we explore the technical side to realise the picture.”

photogpraher Fredrik Broman and aurora
Frederik offers tuition in low-light photography. Photograph: Fredrik Broman

The cold temperature – minus 40c in the winter – means there are plenty of winter activities to explore. One of them is making ice sculptures from Råne River. “It’s a very therapeutic experience which can last throughout the visit. Ice is a great material to work with. People make fantastic sculptures,” Fredrik says.

There are also long snowshoe treks to take part in; walking through the untouched snow with big snowshoes, while looking at miles of widespread landscape, is a unique experience. “The good thing is people won’t get lost since we’re in a valley. And luckily, there are no dangerous animals here – bears have hibernated at this time of year. Not like in Africa where we had to worry about getting killed by an elephant in the woods,” Fredrik recalls.

There is one experience that stands out, he adds. “After getting picked up at the airport in the city of Luleå visitors get on a bus, after that you change to a snow mobile and enter a road-less landscape. We drive 2 kilometres away and suddenly there are no lights – just you and the stars.”


Three days at the Aurora Safari Camp

Day 1
On the day of arrival, Fredrik’s advice is just to stay by the camp and unwind. There are plenty of activities right outside the tent. Take a short walk on the frozen river or borrow a pair of snowshoes for a trek through the forest, up the mountain or by the lake. The food on site is of highest quality, so end the day with a relaxing dinner.

Day 2
Fredrik offers tailor-made photographic expeditions. Would you prefer a two-hour start-up course to get inspired, or a full-stay guidance? Whatever your skills, Fredrik will make sure you get the most out of it. Follow him on a dog sledge adventure and try to photograph the Siberian husky dogs swishing through the open landscape.

Day 3
If you haven’t tried out a snowmobile, this is your chance. The tour lasts half a day and includes a Swedish fika – a traditional break with coffee or tea and cake on route. And when returning to the camp, try ice fishing in the frozen river.

Original Travel (020 3582 4990) is a creative luxury travel company which takes a thoughtful approach to creating tailor-made holidays. It offers a four-night trip to Stockholm and Swedish Lapland from £1,865pp including 2 nights B&B at the Lydmar Hotel in Stockholm and 2 nights half board at the Aurora Safari Camp. The price also includes dog sledging and a photography workshop with Fredrik Broman at the Aurora Safari Camp, all return flights and transfers to the Aurora Safari Camp.

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