Vinícola Salton Riosecco Sparkling Glera, Serra Gaucha, Brazil NV (£9, Marks & Spencer)
A flurry of Brazilian wines arrived in the UK in time for the World Cup a couple of years ago, and with attention focused on the country once again thanks to the Olympics, supermarkets are having another go at persuading us that the third-biggest wine producer in South America is a worthwhile alternative to Argentina and Chile (or, if you prefer, cashing in on a sporting event via the profoundly unathletic medium of booze). Beware paying a novelty premium for some pretty ordinary fare (such as Waitrose’s Brazilian Merlot). But this prosecco-alike from the southern region of Serra Gaucha has the requisite icing-sugar fluffiness to match Italian originals at the same price.
Campos de Solana Tannat Malbec, Santa-Ana, Bolivia 2015 (£11.99, Marks & Spencer)
For really interesting Brazilian wine you have to look beyond the supermarkets. I was impressed by another fizz, Campos de Cima Brut Champenoise 2013 (£23.99, southamerican winesonline.co.uk), which, as the name suggests, looks to France for inspiration and has a graceful biscuity richness, while Harvey Nichols has top-flight burgundian-style chardonnay in Lidio Carraro Dádivas 2012 (£17.50), and Selfridges a smoothly upholstered, sumptuous Portuguese-style red in Miolo Quinta do Seival (£18.99). Or else head back to M&S, which has just listed its first Bolivian wine: a youthful rioja-ish mix of bright black fruit and oak savouriness.
Viñalba Reservado de la Familia Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina 2013 (£10, Morrisons)
If you forget novelty and focus instead on quality, diversity and value, the two behemoths of South American wine are still a long way ahead of the chasing pack. Chile is the most dynamic, with its producers exploring new grape varieties, styles and sites at a breathless pace, while Argentina has been consolidating its traditional strength: malbec. At a time of year when most of us will be attempting a barbecue, a bottle from either side of the Andes is a reliable bet: Viña Leyda Pinot Noir Reserva 2014 (£9.75, Oddbins) is a racy red-fruited partner for marinated chicken or salmon; Viñalba’s chunky, plush, floral-scented Malbec is the match for red meat.
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