Mia and Zuma offer new seasonal menus.
Mia
There is always something good about dining at Mia on Sukhumvit 26, and it’s not just the change in dishes that follow the seasons. It perhaps, maybe, one of those few restaurants where I feel at home, or it could be the choice of three rooms to dine in. But eventually, it is also the food in front of me that makes the entire experience delightful.
Chefs Pongcharn “Top” Russell and Michelle Goh’s new spring seven-course tasting menu (B4,850++, five-course B3,850++, five-glass wine-pairing B3,150++ and the plant-based and vegetarian journey is priced at B3,850++) begins with my all-time favourite way to cool off from humid Bangkok — the Josephine oyster. This time it comes with pickled shallots, Champagne and red shiso granita. The four snacks start off with Smoked haddock tart with Hollandaise, which is inspired by the British classic kippers for breakfast, and the twist is in the form of passionfruit vinegar.
The ikura and trout belly, which is to pretty to eat, Three-cheese cigar with pancetta, inspired by a cheese toastize, and foie gras with white chocolate and gold leaves. “We are going for the non-Japanese take on these snacks, so we avoid the obvious wasabi and go for the housemate Siracha,” says chef Top.
By this point, I know better than to stuff my face with chef Goh’s rather delicious Sourdough brioche with shallot butter and onion ash, because there is a lot of goodness to follow. You don’t have to follow in my footsteps, though. The Hokkaido scallop crudo is served with Chinese-farmed caviar and pickled kohlrabi for zestiness. “The perception of Chinese produce on the global stage is pretty bad, but most of the French caviar companies farm their caviar in China,” explains chef Top.
A dish that is perfect for rainy days or cold air-conditioned rooms is the Cuttlefish “risotto” with cauliflower and back truffle. “I like to cheeky call it the introverted/inverted risotto. We use cuttlefish but reverse it; we have textures of the Krabi-sourced cuttlefish cooked as a rice, crispy short-grained rice and samphire. There is also a red port reduction and the shaved truffle on top is the marriage between the land and the sea,” says chef Top. If you’re a regular at Mia, like I am (humble brag), the dish will give you chef Goh’s Cereal bowl vibes because of the puffed rice in it.
For mains, there is a choice between Hay-aged pigeon served with red endive and figs, and 48-hours braised beef short rib, paired with oyster cream and salsify, which again is a very British pairing; oyster and beef. I chose the former because it would be in season to eat the seasonal French pigeon. “We age the pigeon for six days and slightly grill it. We have red cabbage cooked with barley, black French figs and endives. Pigeon jus, which is seasoned with five spice. The legs are confit in a bit of duck fat,” explains chef Top. Red may not be a spring colour, but does this dish make a statement?! Ending the main course, is a pigeon consommé.
You will be needed the palate cleanser of Whipped feta with tomato jelly and watermelon to get ready for the dessert, which is also a choice. Since I’ve had Mia’s signature Cereal bowl with malted milk chocolate and corn (there’s that flex again ;)), I opt for the Ricotta parfait with strawberry (in season) and elderflower (also, in season).
“The seasonal dessert is a modern classic and is a reinterpretation of strawberries and cream [British, you say?]. We use Korean strawberries, fresh and cooked into a compote and also a bit of jelly. The housed ricotta forms the base of the dish, with mascarpone cream over it and in the centre and elderflower sorbet,” explains chef Goh. The dish is glazed in edible gold dust. A fitting end to a rather excellent meal. Call 098-862-9659 or visit miarestaurantbkk.com.
Zuma Bangkok
Modern Japanese izakaya Zuma, at the St Regis, delivers an elegant, yet fun, informal dining experience. The dishes served here are created using authentic Japanese flavours with a contemporary twist.
If you’re unfamiliar with Zuma, note that the dishes are prepared in three separate areas: principal kitchen, sushi bar and Robata grill — all in full view of the diners. The popular restaurant has added a few new dishes to its already overflowing menu, which makes choices a tad hard to make. But never fear, follow my lead.
To whet the appetite, I usually begin with the Seared tuna with braised red onion and ponzu (B890). Tuna and ponzu are a common pairing in Japan. In this dish, the caramelised onions make a nice contrast with the citrus flavour of ponzu, which in turn also enhances the flavour of the fresh tuna. Topped with garlic chips and spring onions, which add crunchiness to dish, mix in the chilli daikon sauce on the take for a touch of spice.
The Crab salad with sesame dressing and tobiko (B750) is mixed with avocado, while mizen and tenkasu give the texture to the dish. The sesame in the dressing is ever so lightly toasted and imparts a sweet flavour, while the lightly sour orange tobiko adds the to the sweet and sour notes. 3. Grilled edamame with lemon oil and shichimi pepper (B280) is from the Robata grilled. The soybeans are dressed with lemon oil and shichimi pepper. A dish born nearly by chance while looking for a new way to serve the Japanese classic with the Zuma twist. The charcoal grilling gives the edamame a smoky flavour, while the spiciness comes from the shichimi, lemon oil. Topped with a bit of lemon zest to celebrate the season.
Langoustine in kataifi with sour dashi (B1,480) is when langoustine tails are dipped in tempura batter and wrapped in kataifi and fried. The kataifi makes the tails super crispy while preserving the flavour and texture of the langoustine. Like other tempura dishes on the menu, this comes with a side dipping sauce: the Zuma soy sauce, lime juice and a pinch of shichimi pepper. The Iberico pork with mushroom salad and truffle mayo (B1,610) is treated the same way as the beef for the Spicy beef tenderloin with sesame, red chili and sweet soy (B1,650).
It would be a crime not to end the meal at Zuma without its signature Chocolate cake with vanilla ice cream (B490), which is a lava cake filled with spouting caramel sauce. Yum! Call 02-252-4707 or visit zumarestaurant.com/locations/Bangkok
