REMEMBER Hawaiian Sunsets?
The restaurant on the corner of Darby Street and Bull Street that operated for almost 20 years before owner Nick Favos closed the doors in 2003.
Fast forward 18 years and Favos has returned to the place where it all began to launch his new restaurant, Terrace on Darby.
He opened the doors earlier this month after completing a 10-month renovation of the two-storey terrace.
"I have completely rebuilt it and decided to open it back up and bring back its former glory as a stylish, traditional restaurant with great service," Favos says.
"We want people to know that we are serving as a restaurant again. We want to steer away from people thinking it is a bar or nightclub. I am very focused on elegance and style in the restaurant."
He worked at the restaurant (then known as Hawaiian Steakhouse) in the early '80s before purchasing the venue and taking over the business in 1986 at the age of 22.
"I took over and ran it for 17 years," Favos explains. "I leased the venue out for about 18 years, but now I'm back. I had a real desire to rebuild the venue as a quality restaurant."
The venue, which the most-recent tenants operated as nautical-themed bar Quill and Compass, has been transformed.
The dark walls and cluttered interior has been replaced to make way for open-plan dining, both upstairs and downstairs. A fresh coat of white paint and tasteful furnishings brought it all together to create an elegant space, while the balcony is set up as the perfect spot for diners to enjoy a drink before dinner.
The addition of an original 1850s lounge from Favos' collection is a deliberate nod to the terrace's past.
"This is an 1854 building. I wanted to reflect the heritage of the building and the character when I was working on it," he says.
"It used to be a pub back in 1854. I actually have old photographs of the building with the little gaslight out the front because, obviously, there was no electricity then."
Favos is not the only familiar face at Terrace on Darby. Scott Williams, who ran the kitchen for several years at Hawaiian Sunsets, has returned as head chef.
The mains menu is limited to six dishes, which was a deliberate move to keep the menu simple and focus on offering fresh, high-quality, reasonably-priced meals.
Starters include dips with grilled bread ($10.50); warm marinated olives in herbs and chilli ($9); beetroot falafel with salad greens and garlic yoghurt ($14); crispy fried squid with nori salt, aioli and lemon ($17), along with sides: Greek salad ($7); grilled souvlaki bread ($4); and green vegetables with olive oil and lemon ($7).
The mains menu includes scotch fillet with a choice of mushroom, pepper or red wine jus sauce ($34); fish of the day with brown butter, capers and lemon (market price); vegan eggplant moussaka with lentils, spiced tomatoes and cream mash ($26); slow-cooked pork belly with colcannon mash, apple sauce and jus ($32); grilled chicken breast with prosciutto, herbs and cheese, with mushroom sauce ($29); and prawn linguine with chilli, garlic, olives, capers, herbs and tomatoes ($29).
A selection of desserts and kids meals are also available, as well as weekly specials. Williams is considering bringing back popular dishes from Hawaiian Sunsets for the specials board. Cocktails are also on the menu and Australian wine.
A desire to offer traditional service was another big factor in Favos' decision to return to hospitality.
"I still believe in the more traditional style of service," he says. "Topping up your wine, little things like that which make good service. We want to bring that back. It's something that is lacking these days."
Favos' return to the venue is tinged with nostalgia. A spot on Hawaiian Sunsets' upstairs balcony became a popular choice on Darby Street, particularly for couples. He has spotted many familiar faces since opening.
"There are a lot of old customers that have come in since we opened and it has been so nostalgic, to be honest," he says. "There were so many people who proposed marriage here, had engagements parties here. I am seeing a lot of familiar faces and a lot of memories.
"It's a bit surreal at times after 18 years to get back here and look up and see these people you saw here 20 years ago."
