In Straight Outta Compton, the NWA biopic in cinemas this month, there is a scene backstage where DJ Yella is chastised by Eazy-E before a concert. Not because of the music but because Yella is wearing, well, a yellow vest. NWA’s colour scheme – black and silver, like their football team, the LA Raiders – was crucial. It was as much part of their star power as tracks that expressed the blistering anger of young black men on the streets of LA in the late eighties.
Like Public Enemy (military jacket, baseball caps, massive clocks) and Run DMC (Adidas, Kangol, Lee jeans) before them, NWA knew the power of image in hip-hop. The monochrome scheme consisted of Raiders gear: caps and jackets (Ice T even says this is on his successful-rapper shopping list during a press conference in the film), black sweatshirts, long-sleeved white T-shirts and Carhartt-style work jackets. The chunky gold chains – a remnant of the block party style in the Bronx of the early 80s – connects old school hip hop to a new 90s era when hip-hop hit global domination and, whether through Biggie’s tailoring or Missy Elliott’s Boxfresh tracksuits, smartened up.
NWA’s monochrome streetwear has even influenced how young men dress now. Inspired by contemporary rappers who are also style influencers. New York label Hood By Air – worn by A$AP Rocky and Drake – is almost entirely monochrome, with massive slogans over hoodies and long-sleeved T-shirts. Elsewhere, Givenchy, designed by Kanye West’s BFF Riccardo Tisci, routinely uses black and white on its boxy T-shirts and sweatshirts. The spring/summer 2016 menswear show had around 20 looks in this colour scheme. Cottweiler, the London label on the up, took the tracksuits and trainers and made them a bit futuristic. But the great thing about NWA’s look is how easy it is to put together. That’s probably the thing that made them, a group of kids with little disposable income for designer clothes, do it in the first place. One white T-shirt (American Apparel) and a pair of black jeans (Topman) and you’re sorted.
