Amidst murmurs of cancellation and ticketing issues, the 58th edition of the Notting Hill Carnival is still going ahead and promises to be as emphatically joyful as ever.
Europe’s biggest street party will kick off on Saturday, bringing its parades, floats, and processions along the three-and-a-half mile route.
The carnival generates as much as £300 million for the London economy. But it has never been about the money.
Since its inception in 1966, Notting Hill Carnival has been dedicated to celebrating British Caribbean culture, having been created as a response to racism directed at the Windrush generation.
A strength of unity and a tonic of togetherness and pride then and now, the festival continues to bring together people from all walks of life.
There is no better occasion to admire dazzling floats, performers draped in glitter and gold, and to celebrate Caribbean culture through mouthfuls of jerk chicken and gulps of heady Red Stripe.
Parade details and key information
The three-and-a-half mile parade route takes place in, you guessed it, Notting Hill. The route starts from Westbourne Park station, and heads down Westbourne Grove, then through to Ladbroke Grove.
Aside from the parade procession, there’ll be much to do all across W10 and W11, from food stalls to live stages, bands, and boogies.
Saturday kicks off at 4pm with the customary UK National Panorama Steel Band Competition in Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park. It is one of the few ticketed events at the open-air festivals. The contest sees the UK’s best steel bands go head-to-head. No sheet music is permitted. It’s a battle of sheer talent, months of rehearsals, and memory. The list of bands competing will be released in due course.
Sunday gets underway at 6am with J’ouvert. Derived from the French phrase “jour ouvert” or opening of the day, this part of the carnival sees crowds get going from dawn.
Affectionately called Family Day, Sunday also features the Children’s Day Parade, but make no mistake, it is no calm, pared-back experience.
Expect brightly coloured paint, drums, music, and plenty of dancing as the “Dutty” and “Fun Mas” parades arrive in full force in W10.
Monday is adults’ day and is when the real fun begins. The intensity of Monday can only be summarised through the 15,000 feather plumes, 30 litres of body paint, and 30 million sequins that will dance through the procession route all day.
Festival-goers can boogie at the sound systems and stages dotted around the carnival. An integral part of Notting Hill Carnival, the live stages and sound systems will blare out rare groove, reggae, and samba all day until 7pm on Sunday and Monday.
Some of the best sound systems include Aba Shanti-I, 4Play, Channel One, and King Tubby’s. For the techno lovers, Pineappletribe have regularly got parties started too.
Keep an ear out for the Brazilian Bands, which have been live drumming and working their way through the parade since 1984, and the carnival’s famous Calypso tent.
How to get there
With more than one million people in attendance each day, getting to Notting Hill Carnival can prove a challenge.
Much of W10 is closed over the weekend, including Ladbroke Grove all weekend. Holland Park is entry only from 11am and closed after 3pm. Royal Oak is also entry only from 11am and will close at 6pm. Notting Hill Gate will only service Central line trains and is exit-only from 11am to 6pm. Westbourne Park is also no entry from 11am.
It’s worth noting that there is not expected to be a Night Tube nor Night Overground on Sunday or Monday night.
All the Santander cycle stations will be closed from Saturday to Tuesday and buses are also expected to stop short of their usual destination, although there are two special bus services for the weekend. The 148X will run between Shepherd’s Bush and Victoria, whilst the 7X will run between East Acton and Paddington.
The best Tube stations open across the weekend are Paddington and Shepherd’s Bush. From Paddington, the Bakerloo, Circle, District, Hammersmith & City, and Elizabeth lines will all be running.
The full list of disruptions can be found on tfl.gov.uk.
It’s also worth noting that All Points East also falls on the same weekend across in east London.
The after parties
For those who want to keep the party going after the carnival closes at around 7pm, there are plenty of after-parties – some planned and some impromptu.
Venues across the capital will be offering after party events, including Fire and Lightbox in Brixton, Trapeze and Basing House in Shoreditch, and Scala in Kings’ Cross.
Most famously, Sunday West Sound System hosts its Carnival party at Acre in Ladbroke Grove. Ministry of Sound also hosts an “official” after party every year.
Plenty of pubs in the area will also be open to keep the good times rolling, though they get busy pretty quickly.
What to eat and drink
It wouldn’t be Carnival without Jamaican jerk chicken, Trini roti, and Guyanese pepper pot; all must-trys at Carnival.
In total, there are around 300 food stalls to choose from, though an official list of traders has not yet been shared. The festival has said though that this year will see an increasing number of vegan and veggie traders.
Levi Roots, founder of Reggae Reggae sauce, shared his top places to eat at Notting Hill Carnival last year. Whilst it is likely they will re-open again this year, it’s worth checking before you go.
Curtis Caribbean
Location: Middle Lane
“This one is a must for seafood, bakes and cakes, and the selection is very good. You won’t just find the usual classics here, which is why I love checking it out.”
Jay Dees Catering
Location: Lancaster Road
“I really like this one. It’s a small shop, but the juicy jerk chicken and rice and peas is banging. I think the best thing is that you can see the food being cooked right in front of you while you wait.”
Grannies Caribbean Jerk Shack
Location: Powis Square
“Specialising in spicy jerk chicken, Jamaican rum fruit cakes, curry goat, jerk wraps, veggie curry and macaroni cheese, Grannies is one of my absolute favourites. It remains authentic and is still family run.”
Cottons Restaurant
Location: Notting Hill Gate
“If you’re looking for a lazy Caribbean food experience, this one’s for you. In case you don’t fancy queuing in the street, and would rather avoid eating out of paper plates, Cottons is a proper restaurant, and a lovely one at that.”
The Jerk Hub
Location: Golborne Road
“Good for boneless jerk chicken, coleslaw and rice and peas, this is one that many Carnival-goers swear by, and rightly so.”
Universal Hot Pot
Location: Middle Row
“Universal Hot Pot specialises in carnival food with an African twist so, if you fancy something a little different from the usual offerings, it’s a good choice. The jollof rice is a must.”
Mr Roy Jerk Chicken
Location: Goldborne Road
“At Mr Roy’s, the best thing is their authentic spicy Jerk, the slow-cooked oxtail and their famous curry goat. The owner Mr Roy is always on hand for a chat, and you won’t find a lovelier gentleman at Carnival.”
To drink, there are plenty of places to grab yourself a Red Stripe, Carib, or a rum punch. There are also free water drinking points located on Kensington Park Road, Alderson Street, and Shrewsbury Road.
Top tips for Carnival first-timers
- Big groups are foolish — with appalling signal and big crowds, keep groups manageable or expect to get lost.
- Cash is a commodity worth having on hand. ATMs are few and far between, and queues are historically horrific.
- Familiarise yourself with toilets. Locals don’t love their gardens being used as lavatories, unsurprisingly.
- Don’t try to meet friends at Carnival; travel into the carnival together.
