The world’s second-largest street festival returns this bank holiday weekend as London welcomes the 58th edition of Notting Hill Carnival. Its happening comes as a relief: there had been murmurs of cancellation; rumours of ticketing when it has always been free to attend. Organisers warned about the carnival’s future. In a letter leaked to the BBC, chair Ian Comfort requested “urgent funding” from the Government. He said it was “essential to safeguarding the future and public safety of this iconic event”. A response is said to be on its way.
Outcomes and deliberations aside, Comfort is right: Notting Hill Carnival is iconic. The annual celebration attracts two million people each year and contributes as much as £300 million to the economy. Not that the festival is about money. Taking place since 1966, it is rooted in British Caribbean culture and community. It began in response to widespread racial tensions in 1950s Britain, to riots and attacks. Anyone who believes all tensions to have dissipated is monstrously naive. Here lies the strength of unity and the tonic of togetherness.
Decades on and Europe’s biggest street party is as important as ever. Each year, revellers step off the Tube and wander toward Portobello to the sound of soca beats and cheering, the rhythmic pull of calypso and steel pan, of gyrating hips and sound systems blasting dub, rare groove, samba and hip hop.
This pocket of west London is, for three days, transformed into one enormous party, a kaleidoscope of feathers, rum punch and masked dancers. It is the best of London: diverse, fun and a little debauched. What a shame it would be to see it end. Many will hope 2025 will be the best year yet — proving that carnival is a necessary fixture in the London calendar. And so: crack open a can of Red Stripe and strap in. Here’s what you need to know.
Three days of partying
The festival will kick off on Saturday, bringing parades, floats and processions along the three-and-a-half mile route which runs from Westbourne Park Tube station, winds down Great Western Road then turns onto Westbourne Grove before finishing near Ladbroke Grove. Expect performers draped in glitter and gold, mas dancers, steel bands and more. Saturday kicks off at 4pm with the customary UK National Panorama Steel Band Competition in Emslie Horniman’s Pleasance Park. One of the few ticketed events, it sees the UK’s best steel bands go head-to-head and no sheet music is permitted. It’s a battle of sheer talent, months of rehearsals and memory.
Sunday gets under way at 6am with J’ouvert. Derived from the French phrase “jour ouvert” or opening of the day, this part of the carnival sees crowds get going from dawn. Affectionately called Family Day, Sunday also features the Children’s Day Parade, but make no mistake, it is no calm, pared-back experience. Expect brightly coloured paint, drums, music and plenty of dancing as the Dutty/Fun Mas parade arrives in full force in W10.
Monday is adults’ day and is when the real fun begins. The intensity can only be summarised through the 15,000 feather plumes, 30 litres of body paint and 30 million sequins that will dance through the procession route. Or perhaps the millions of litres of rum drunk every year. Live stages and sound systems will blare out reggae and samba until 7pm on Sunday and Monday. Those who wish to carry on must seek out an after-party. We can’t help you there — you’re either in or you’re out.
What to eat
It’s not hard to find good food at carnival. Every year the sky is filled with barbecue smoke, the smell of jerk chicken in the air. It would be remiss not to seek it out, cover it in scotch bonnet sauce and have it with rice and peas, always comforting, sustaining. There’s plenty more to eat besides.
A good place to start might be Curtis Caribbean on Middle Lane, famed for its seafood dishes such as fried fish with pickled onions and mixed peppers. Elsewhere is Jay Dees Catering on Lancaster Road, one of the best places to find traditional jerk chicken, coleslaw, and rice and peas, as well as salt fish with either ackee or calaloo.
At Notting Hill Gate is Cottons Restaurant, which offers a lazy Caribbean food experience in a slightly more formal setting. And nearby is the Jerk Hub, a festival favourite thanks to its speed and efficiency — it’s here you’ll find boneless jerk chicken wraps for eating on the go. Another serious contender for the best street food in Notting Hill is Mr Roy, who’s become famous for his spicy jerk chicken, slow-cooked oxtail stew and curry goat. Roy is a true gentleman and festival stalwart to boot. As well as classic Jamaican dishes, also look out for Trinidadian roti, Guyanese pepper pot and West African fare such as jollof rice, the latter of which can be found at the likes of Universal Hot Pot.
Iconic sound systems
Many of the sound systems have been carnival stalwarts for generations. Aba Shanti-I (on the intersection of East Row and Southern Row) has been playing roots and dub since 1993, reggae legend Channel One (where Leamington Road Villas meets Westbourne Park Road) has been there since 1983, while the Sir Lloyd sound system (corner of Leamington Road Villas and Tavistock Road) has been delivering R’n’B and reggae since 1979. Check out the newer players, too. Triple S (Southern Row corner of Bosworth Road) shells out genre-hopping tracks, while Disco Hustlers (Powis Square) does what it says on the tin.
Getting there
Carnival is always hectic and busy and getting in and out can prove to be a challenge, so come prepared and plan your route. Ladbroke Grove station is closed all weekend. Holland Park is entry only from 11am and closed after 3pm. Royal Oak is also entry-only from 11am and will close at 6pm. Notting Hill Gate will only service Central line trains and is exit-only from 11am to 6pm. Westbourne Park is also no entry from 11am. The best Tube stations open across the weekend are Paddington and Shepherd’s Bush. The TfL website has the full list of disruptions.
All the Santander cycle stations will be closed from Saturday to Tuesday. Buses are expected to stop short of their usual destinations, although there are two special services for the weekend. The 148X will run between Shepherd’s Bush and Victoria, while the 7X will run between East Acton and Paddington.
Top tips for first-timers
Essentials are a bottle of water, a fully charged phone and friends in tow. Big groups are foolish — with appalling signal and big crowds, keep it manageable or expect to get split up. Cash is worth having — ATMs are few and far between and queues are historically horrific.
