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The Guardian - UK
The Guardian - UK
Annalisa Barbieri

Notes on chocolate: brownies at the top of their game

Magic squares: Eponine vegan brownie in an eight-piece box.
Magic squares: Eponine vegan brownie in an eight-piece box Photograph: PR

The subject of brownies was first introduced to me via the Mrs Piggle-Wiggle series. Such things didn’t exist back then, but now, of course, they are everywhere. Brownies are hard to get really right and they are very individual, what one person likes another loathes. I’m keen to try John Whaite’s Ruff Puff brownies, because if anyone can get them spot on, it’s him, especially since you can no longer buy Paul A Young’s (which were the absolute very best).

Cook brownies for too long and you’ve basically got chocolate cake – nice, but not a squidgy brownie. Cook them for not long enough and you have… uncooked brownie. Let’s not even get into vegan brownies, which are often made using ingredients you can’t spell, let alone pick out in a lineup.

Well no, let’s talk vegan brownies. Éponine has been working on its vegan brownies for some time now and I’m pleased to report they are rather good. My vegan testers loved them, but so did my non-vegan guinea pigs.

There are no nasty ingredients and the chocolate used is of very good quality (important), so much so that it came up in the tasting notes. Eaten cold they had a slight nougat consistency to them (‘They remind me of what a Mars bar used to taste like,’ one said, and they meant this as a deep compliment), but given a gentle warm in the microwave and they become softer and lighter. ‘Gosh these are rather good,’ said another tester, who said he hated brownies. They cost £16 for four and each brownie weighs about 100g; we found it best to eat half at a time.

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