Believed to be the oldest Norwegian stave church still standing, Urnes Stave Church deep in Norway’s fjord country is a highlight of any Norwegian road trip itinerary. The view out across the Lustrafjord, an arm of the well-known Sognefjord, conjures up images of departing Viking expeditions and Norse settlements long gone.
Upon first approach, the church appears to be simple in design. But up close, visitors see the Romanesque style building adorned with fascinating carvings. It’s also in remarkably good condition for its age. Archaeologists date the church to the 1130s, although recent evidence suggests it could be even older.
Some newer touches include a 17th-century extension and new windows installed more recently, but the core of the church is as it was many hundreds of years ago.
A sign of changing times
You don't have to be of any faith to appreciate Norway’s 28 remaining stave churches. As their design tells the story of Norway’s transition from the Norse people of the Viking Age to the era of Christianity, these churches are just as fascinating for anyone with a passing interest in history or architecture.
The wood carvings are based on popular Viking Age art and craftsmanship. Such is their striking nature, the carvings are now known as the Urnes style.
Archaeologists believe it is the fourth such building to stand at the same site, suggesting it was a sacred site long before Christianity was introduced to Norway during the latter part of the Viking Age.
There’s more familiar Christian imagery inside the church. A group of figures depicting Jesus suffering on the cross in front of Mary and John dates from the 12th century. The church is open to visitors most days during the summer season, which runs May thru September.
A taste of life in the Norwegian fjords
To a tourist, life in the Norwegian fjords must seem relaxing. But the reality of life for people living on the banks of the Lustrafjord has always been defined by hard work. In and around the village of Ornes, the farms and boathouses show how generations of people have made their living over the centuries—and continue to do so today.
Other notable churches in the region include the larger Kaupanger Stave Church and the 17th century old Lutheran church at Gaupne.
Interest in Urnes Stave Church has increased greatly since it was added to the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1979. Getting to Urnes—located in the village spelled Ornes—is half the fun.
How to get to Urnes Stave Church
To reach the church from the regional capital Sogndal, take route 55 north of the town. It should take less than an hour to make the 14 mile drive, which includes a short car ferry crossing. Check the timetable of the Solvorn to Ornes service in advance as it only operates a handful of times per day.
When visiting Ornes, make sure to leave time to take at least a short drive up the coastal road of the Lustrafjord. Better still, continue along the road to Skjolden, from where you can connect with the national scenic route Sognefjellsveien, the highest mountain pass in Northern Europe.
