Since its official opening this past July, the Waldorf Astoria Bangkok has earned a prominent position at the forefront of the city upscale wining and dining scene. But they haven’t done this by playing it safe. Take for instance the beautifully designed ground floor fine dining venue, aptly titled the Front Room. Originally envisioned as simply a Thai restaurant, the venue took on a decidedly different twist when the multi-talented Rungthiwa ‘Fae’ Chummongkhon was chosen to helm the restaurant as Chef de Cuisine, promising a blend of Nordic and Thai culinary characteristics.
Born and raised in Chiang Rai, Chef Fae came to have a second home in Denmark—with her Danish husband—and it was there that she began her career as a professional chef. Training at the Michelin-starred Frederikshøj, graduating from the three-starred La Belle Epoque in Germany, and honing her skills in top restaurants in Denmark such as Noma and Kokkedal Slot, Fae developed a deep understanding and appreciation for Nordic culture and cuisine, particularly that of her adopted homeland.
Now if you think Danish and Thai fare make strange bedfellows, you’re not alone. At first glance they appear to be as far apart as on the menu as they are on the world map. However, Chef Fae seems instinctively to know how to make it all work, inventively interlacing the ingredients and cooking techniques of these two nations. Since returning to Thailand her acclaimed tasting menu at Front Room has been showcasing this fascinating fusion to local foodies, but her upcoming Christmas dinner menu (Bt 4,500++/per person), available exclusively on the evenings of December 24th and 25th, offers some tantalizing new creations to savour.
Inspired by Chef Fae’s Christmases in Denmark, the evening begins with a four-handed opener entitled Velkommen (welcome). On one plate three pairs of bite-sized starters sit on a bed of smooth black river stones; spherical Danish pancake puffs, slivers of rye bread topped with delicious cod and a dill mayo, and tiny tacos of sweet potato with piquant pickled mackerel and diced green apple. Next to this an ornamental bonsai plant has two bright orange—almost translucent—paper-thin carrot leaf chips inserted into its foliage. Taken together this complex collective delivers distinct flavour bursts, and Fae instructs that they should be eaten in order (doughy, to sweet, to sour). It’s evident from the get go that this meal is going to be a “food as art” affair, with even more elaborate culinary creations to come.
Next up is a vibrantly coloured course wherein tiny grey shrimp, black caviar, and wild greens form a nest around a single, unbroken egg yolk. Onto this is poured a rich red beetroot sauce, delicately seasoned with Thai herbs, which is then dotted with drops of fragrant dill oil. The next step is for you, the diner, to mix it all together vigorously, forming a gourmet mayonnaise that has no relation to anything you’d find in the supermarket. It’s another intense coming together of diverse flavours, and it works beautifully.
The third course is also a sensory affair, as a smoke filled glass dome covering a large dark plate arrives at the table with a flourish. When the dome is lifted a waft of lemongrass smoke rises to reveal a lime-marinated scallop, expertly pounded flat and sliced into a thin membrane about the size of a drink coaster. Laid over top a dollop of lemon cream, and garnished with pearls of trout roe, it somewhat resembles an angelic fried egg. However, the taste is much more heavenly, with the tangy lemon and salty roe perfectly accenting the tender scallop.
The fourth course is entitled “Norway to Thailand”, and it’s another visual and visceral treat. What appears on the plate is an orange ball, pierced with slender appendages that make it look like an alien rambutan. The actual inspiration is a sea urchin, as Chef Fae explains, adding that the green “spines” are sea asparagus (so yummy), and the brown ones are made from potato. The ball, meanwhile, is comprised of Norwegian cold smoked salmon wrapped around a sphere of fluffy cream cheese, dappled with black caviar and garnished with lemon purée. It’s a shame to cut into this edible work of art but it would be a bigger shame not to. It’s divine!
For the next two courses Chef Fae leaves the sea and moves inland, beginning with a pastry shell tartlet filled with a creamy mix of diced free-range chicken, white asparagus, and caviar. For the final dinner item guests are invited to choose either the lamb or the duck entrée, but it is, to be honest, a difficult decision as both are superb. The plump cut of blackened Australian lamb is paired with broccolini, carrot, morel, and carrot sauce, while the truffle enhanced duck is, by contrast, locally sourced and served with jicama, pearl barley, and mulberry sauce. The crusting on this chunk of wonderfully tender bird is a mix of shaved truffle and popped barley, which together with the lightly crunchy jicama adds some nice texture to this dish.
The dessert course is entitled “Red and White”, and is a clever nod to the Danish flag. The tube-shaped white rice parfait and white chocolate mousse is quite subtle in flavour compared to the very tart and tangy cherry sorbet—made to look like a pair of actual cherries, with a chocolate stem—but the combo works well and a heap of cherry granita crumble adds a refreshing icy kick. Followed by a plate of colourful petite fours, and your choice of coffee or tea, this holiday meal—which also comes with Chef Fae’s signature black sticky rice sourdough bread and garlic soy butter—is nicely filling without being at all heavy.
A carefully curated wine pairing will also be available for these holiday meals, or make your own selections from the available wine list. Both the 2016 Neudorf Rosie’s Block Chardonnay from New Zealand (Bt 2,750/bottle), and the 2016 Jean-Paul & Benoit Droin Chablis Premier Cru from France (Bt 6,375/bottle), pair nicely with the starters and the seafood. Switching to red, the 2011 Chateau Faugeres, St. Emilion Grand Cru from France (Bt 7,400/bottle) is the perfect choice.
The Front Room
Waldorf Astoria Bangkok 151 Ratchadamri Rd., Lumpini, Pathumwan Price: Bt 4,500 ++/person (food only) Date: December 24-25, 6pm–10:30pm Tel. +66 (0)2 846 8888 Email: [email protected] www.waldorfbangkok.waldorfastoria.com
