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Evening Standard
Evening Standard
Travel
Dominique Hines

Nobody warned me the Caribbean would be this extra - here’s what went down in St Vincent and Grenada

St Vincent and Grenada - very different twins - (Getty)

When I was sold the idea of a “twin-Caribbean holiday” at two all inclusive hotels, I thought, “Cool! Two lookalike beaches with slightly different turquoise tones, some interchangeable coconut cocktails and buffets that taste of failed life choices. What I got: Beyoncé-backing-dancers dolphins at sunset. Magic trees the literal colours of the rainbow that were not painted but born this way, food glorious food and volcanoes... everywhere.

Whew. If you haven’t guessed - because how could you? This is Grenada and St Vincent.

Two Caribbean islands called “siblings” because they’re super close to each other and pretty much the same size, but: “No man! We very different,” my Grenadian butler (yep, butler) at my hotel told me. Or, that’s what I think he told me as I knocked back my 1,000,000th rum punch.

Grenada, baby!

Seashells in Grenada (Claudio Beduschi/REDA/Universal Images Group via Getty Images))

I kicked things off at Sandals Grenada on Pink Gin Beach surrounded by tropical plants with the ocean as the backdrop. I was assured that my imminent trip to St Vincent would be different enough to be worth the visit. Sandals is an All-inclusive, and I usually associate that with watered down everything and... conga dancing, but here I was. But Sandals Grenada is set up in a way that you don’t have to witness this, if it’s not your thing.

Grenada (Dominique Hines)

I stayed in the South Seas Honeymoon Hideaway Suite. I’m not married, but all the single ladies, throw your hands up, because we are clearly celebrated here. I glimpsed some of the “regular” suites and they are anything but. All pretty and secluded.

My suite was tucked behind pink hibiscus flowers and had a plunge pool, a hot tub and a minibar so stocked I wanted to tip it. Room categories like this come with a butler - who would tuck you in if you asked, but maybe don’t ask.

The divine balcony view at my Granada suite/Sandals (Dominique Hines)

Leaving the resort to explore the island felt like an act of betrayal. This certainly wasn’t the All-inclusive I dreaded.

I was schooled

My first excursion was to the Sandals Foundation’s Reading Road Trip, a two-hour Thursday morning gig at Woburn Methodist School (£25 if you book ahead via Unique Caribbean Holidays). Something about “school visit” still gives me flashbacks of double maths, but I was promised it was worth it.

The delightful school kids in St Vincent (Dom Hines)

I was glad I did, for I witnessed a miracle: Seven-year-olds who listened to every word I said without laughing at me (my PTSD is gone) they also didn’t ask for snacks, Roblox or a WiFi password. The group I went with read to them as the rain the pelted down outside, but nothing dampened spirits here. The Foundation nudges you to Pack for a Purpose, so I took school supplies. I wanted to quit my job to teach until... Grenada’s beachside grilled lobster whispered, ‘But what if you didn’t?’

Food, glorious food

Scrumptious rice and peas (Getty)

Grenada’s food scene is a flavour explosion. My first meal was at the resort’s Soy restaurant, and demolished the sushi menu: Nigiri, Maki, Chirashi, Inari, and Temaki, haze. Then asked for seconds. Self-respect? Left it at Heathrow.

But off-resort is where the real party’s at. For lunch, it was T’s Eco Garden’s Farm-to-Table experience (£110, book via Unique Caribbean Holidays).

I joined the women of GRENROP, a badass crew of female farmers backed by the Sandals Foundation led by Theresa Marryshow - owner of T's Eco Garden and president of the Grenada Network of Rural Women Producers. I walked with one through sun-dappled fields, filling my arms with spinach, fiery scotch bonnet peppers, citrusy lemongrass, and papayas. Naturally, I hauled my loot back to my hotel because when life hands you farm-fresh produce, you pile it atop the mountain of food already included at Sandals.

Pick your dinner at T's garden (Dominique Hines)

At T’s garden I feasted like a local hero: Curry chicken and Oil Down (Grenada’s coconutty, turmeric-kissed national dish, simmered with breadfruit and chicken), rice and peas and sorrel – a magically sweet and tart, hibiscus-based drink spiked with ginger. I dined on their wooden veranda with a front-row seat to a quiet revolution. With the Foundation’s irrigation systems and shade houses, these women aren’t just feeding families – they’re growing Grenada’s future, one scotch bonnet at a time.

Chocolate dreams

House of Chocolate, Grenada (Dom Hines)

One day it was off to the House of Chocolate in St. George. It’s part museum, part café, all cocoa obsession in a colonial building. It houses old-school cocoa tools that look like they belong in a wizard’s kitchen. It’s quite packed but worth the visit if only for their “cocoa tea” - an acquired taste but, to me, it’s like a chocolate melted another chocolate into a mug and then the nutmeg and cinnamon jumped in screaming “yay!” They also give chocolate tutorials - very serious stuff.

Grande Anse beach (Gamma-Rapho via Getty Images)

I swam this off in Grand Anse Beach - a gorgeous stretch where the ocean is so clear it’s like “Maldives, who?”

Then I made for Esther’s Bar across the sands for neon-red rum punch and saltfish (salted cod) fritters with a perfect golden crust. Back on the road - I saw Rainbow eucalyptus trees lining the street like nature's tie-dye experiment (and no that wasn’t the rum punch). These stunners are real. Their trunks peel into psychedelic ribbons of mint, lavender, and yellow - Grenada's Technicolor daydream.

Reaching the heights of beauty (Dom Hines)
The unreal Rainbow eucalyptus tree (Dominique Hines)

On my last day it was Grand Etang Lake - a landmark surrounded by a rain forest and located in an old crater some 1,700 feet above sea level before arriving at Fort Frederick. Its cannons aimed inland since 1779 when the French, having just captured the island from the British, were so paranoid about local uprisings they literally turned their guns on their own territory. Between perfect views and ridiculous history, that familiar ache hit of when a place stops being 'new' and starts being 'gone too soon.'

Vincy, darling

The road to Bequia, St Vincent is picture perfect (Dominique Hines)

The ferry’s horn cuts through the humidity. Time to trade Grenada’s painted landscape for St. Vincent’s black sand. One magic for another’s… fingers crossed. After a 40-min with InterCaribbean Airways and a boat ride that had me popping motion sickness pills like Polo mints, I was at Sandals Saint Vincent.

Breakfast Epiphanies (Dominique Hines)

This 50-acre jungle-meets-beach paradise is hugged by black sand, with the famous La Soufrière volcano brooding in the background like a nightclub bouncer - scowling with ‘I could end this whole party right now’ energy. I started at Parasol, where breakfast comes with a side of serious views. Think espresso in hand, saltfish and fried dumplings, and a pool melting into the ocean. By 10am, I was in a cabana coma.

Sunshine hits Sandals St Vincent (Sandals)

This place is the younger, cooler sibling of Sandals, Grenada. It’s a sleeker,low-key beach house vibe with no big dress codes, no fuss...

My garden villa was modern and spotless, if a little too generic for my taste. It was eclipsed by the stunning property, but it was still perfectly nice and private.

My cosy Garden suite (Sandals)

My tip: Go for one of the main block suites. They are gorgeous, with a stunning beach sunset, epic mountain views and a gorgeous bathtub on the spacious balcony.

That evening I hopped on the Butler Sunset cruise, which is every bit as extra as it sounds.

Dancing dolphins (Dominique Hines)

Champagne, dolphins which dance as well as Beyoncé’s back-up team, it was a full-on performance. Cue the speed. Cue me understanding - I’m just an extra in this show.

The water’s so clear, even Jack Sparrow could’ve navigated it with two eye patches. Pirates of the Caribbean was filmed here, in fact.

St Vincent’s Sunset Cruise whisks you to magical places (Dominique Hines)

But the real treasure? Kingstown. The so-called City of Arches, which I sauntered down the next day between pastel Georgian buildings and cool breezes. These picturesque streets are lined with markets, selling plantains yams and various fruits and vegetables and shops with local ice creams like sour sop behind wide pavements framed by arches. Then the Botanical Gardens - founded in 1765 feel like stepping into a time capsule. Twenty acres of living history: breadfruit Samaan trees that were ancient before the US even existed.

Botanical gardens St Vincent (Dominique Hines)

Then, yes... it’s food time. A drive up into the surrounding hills and I was at Zen’s Bush Bar in Vermont, serving Ital cuisine– the Rasta tradition of clean, natural eating where every ingredient honours the earth.

The chickpea curry and humous, spiced and simmered to perfection and the pineapple-ginger juice? A tangy-sweet kick that could revive a zombie. Tucked into this surrounding by mountains so lush, they turned my lunch into a meditation session.

Ital food (Dom Hines)

Then the ferry to Bequia, which is pronounced “Beck-way”, not “Bee-kwee-a”. A real highlight for me. To get there, I was transported on an open-air jeep, which bounced up hillside roads. My spine got a free chiropractic session to but the wild beauty helped the bumps fade fast.

Bequia on the horizon (Dominique Hines)

My first stop - Princess Margaret Beach, named after that royal who loved splashing about there. I swam in water so clear, the fish seemed suspended in air. Lunch at nearby De Reef was grilled lobster, still tasting like the ocean -smoky, buttery, with just enough hot sauce to keep things interesting.

The best way to get around Bequia (Dominique Hines)

Later it was dinner at Buccan restaurant back at the hotel was a must-do. It was all flavour, no fuss, no menu, of crispy provisions, grilled fish with tangy mango chutney, and a curry lamb so rich, I’m still thinking about it.

The yabba pot rice? - a traditional Caribbean way of cooking rice in a handmade clay pot typically over an open flame or coals -brought the smoky goodness. This meal was a high-five from local fishermen and farmers.

The crystal clear Princess Margaret beach (Dominique Hines)

So imagine when my last day arrived? So unwelcome, but inevitable, like a Monday. I determinedly made it pure slow-motion bliss: a hot stone massage at Red Lane Spa (lemongrass oil, ocean murmurs and sleeping n the open-air.

Then back to my room where my bath was drawn. Perfect temp, suspiciously good bubble bath, drawn by my butler (yes, another one).

Buccan restaurant - Sandals St Vincent (Sandals)

This all culminated into a divine Last Supper as Sandal’s Jerk Shack. Curry chicken, goat, oxtail, plantain, rice and peas, fish soup, various warm breads - all killer, all ordered. Another tip: Ask for the tasting portions unless you want enough food for a family. Did I get slightly scolded by a server for over-ordering? Yes. Was it worth it? 100%.

The Divine spa at Sandals St Vincent (Dominique Hines)

Conclusion: It’s not just the dolphins or the volcanoes or the five-star feasting that sticks. It’s the people, the culture... okay, also the dolphins.

These islands aren’t twins. They’re siblings with wildly different personalities, and I’m glad I got to meet them both.

How to get this:

Seven-night holidays from £2,465pp and from £2,999pp. A 10-night twin-centre stay (3 nights at Sandals Grenada ,seven nights at Sandals Saint Vincent and The Grenadines starts from £4,349pp, including return flights with Virgin Atlantic from London Heathrow, all-inclusive accommodation in a Butler Suite, fast ferry transfer between islands, and airport transfers.

To book, visit sandals.co.uk or call 0800 597 0002.

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