The walk down "Heartbreak Hill" at Charlotte Pass over all those higgledy-piggledy cobblestones towards the Snowy River is the start of many adventures onto the roof of Australia. You've got the lure of magical Blue Lake just over the near horizon and the wonders of the Main Range trek up past Little Austria and beyond.
We've been here before. Many times. In fact, the kids are already excitedly chatting about who is going to be first to take their shoes off when we reach the stepping stones across the Snowy. Yes, they've fallen into the icy water more than once before.
But, when, about three-quarters of the way down the hill towards the river, I stop and take a right turn onto a new track, they suddenly go quiet.
The way ahead is marked by an A4 piece of paper slipped into a plastic sleeve and cable-tied to a star picket. It reads "Guthega Village 9km".
"Oh, and that's just one-way," I tell the kids, the smiles well and truly wiped off their faces. They'll cheer up soon enough.
This new section of track is the latest stage in the 55-kilometre Snowies Alpine Walk and while construction at the Guthega end isn't quite complete, the rangers have temporarily opened the track to those wanting a sneak peek. And there's no way I'm going to miss out. I've never walked downstream of here before. Not many have.
"Back in 1963 it was set aside and recognised as the last 'Primitive Area', an area of very special significance in Kosciuszko National Park and internationally," says highly regarded Canberra conservationist and bushwalker Dianne Thompson, who led the effort to stop the track being built. "The area, where the new track has been cut, had not been tampered with by Europeans, it missed being burned, including in the 1939 fires and every fire since, had not been impacted by Snowy Hydro, and furthermore was the only periglacial area on mainland Australia," Dianne says.
Despite opposition from Dianne and others, the track did get the tick of approval and it begins with an impressive, elevated steel mesh walkway to prevent the fragile alpine fauna being trampled. It's just like the so-called "metal highway" that carries the regular throng of walkers from Thredbo Top Station to Mount Kosciuszko, only this track is about half as wide and three times higher. You wouldn't want to accidentally fall off, you could easily bust an ankle. As for passing anyone, forget it, unless you are prepared to turn sideways, arch your back and rub posteriors.
With COVID concerns, we jump on and off the steel mesh, allowing others walking towards us to comfortably pass until the track gives way to a long section of carefully laid stone. The funding for the 55km of revamped and new track was $17 million and it's clear they've spent a good chunk of that on this new track.
The view, on the other hand, is priceless and as trek walk further downstream, the vistas to the west up and along the spine of the main range are sublime. Snow patches from last winter hang on for grim death, and at one point a full Blue Lake Creek tumbles spectacularly down a series of cascades.
While the walk meanders in and out of sheltered areas of gnarly snow gums, it mainly traverses open alpine country, and on a hot day you feel more than a little exposed to the elements.
For many, the highlight on this alpine hike will be the two swinging bridges about 3km short of Guthega. The first is brand new and spans Spencers Creek, just metres from its confluence with the Snowy River, and according to park authorities "was carefully constructed to avoid disturbance of the creek's bed, banks, and instream habitat features".
About 500 metres further towards Guthega is the historic Illawong suspension bridge. With only one adult allowed on the bridge at any one time, we wait five minutes for our turn to cross. One can only imagine how busy this will get in peak times. It's also a dead end (there's a nice spot for lunch under the bridge but don't tell anyone) so unless you intend heading back country, you'll have to cross back over to the main track. Not that the kids mind. Daredevils they are.
The final part of the track skirts by the Illawong Lodge - a modest four-roomed building probably better described as a glorified mountain shack. For years it's been the domain of the Illawong Ski Tourers, a small group of hardened cross-country skiers who primarily use the lodge as a staging post for backcountry adventures. However, in summer, unless they're hosting a rare open day, you'll find it locked.
When we finally reach Guthega Village, but for a few people enjoying a quiet break at the Guthega Inn, it's all but deserted. I'm not sure the regulars here are ready for the influx of people who are going to stride out along this new walk. Sure, it won't be as popular as the summit track up to Mt Kosciuszko, but given its ease of access, gentle gradient, and a café at either end, come next summer, it's going to be as busy as Pitt Street.
I can completely understand the reservations of Dianne Thompson and those who opposed the track. More than once I felt like I was encroaching on something special, something that should have been left as it was. But I guess, some call this progress.
What to know if you go...
The walk: Stage 2 of the 55km Snowies Alpine Walk, the 9.9km (one-way) section between Guthega and Charlotte Pass, is due to officially open later this month. During the final stages of construction, park rangers have allowed access along the track, with some short diversions at the Guthega end. Best to call the Snowy Region Visitor Centre (02 6450 5600) to check the track is open on the day you are planning to go.
One-way? If you only want to walk one-way and you have access to two cars, leave one car at Guthega Village and the other at the Charlotte Pass turning circle. My recommendation would be to walk downstream from Charlotte Pass, that way, you will miss that slog up Heartbreak Hill on the at the end of the walk (sorry kids).
Café culture: Although you can potentially start and finish the walk at a café, the two options of Stillwell Hotel at Charlotte Pass and the Base Camp Café at Guthega Village are open intermittent hours. If your coffee hit is a deal breaker, call ahead to confirm.
Expect: Hidden valleys of mountain ash and gnarly snow gums, summer wildflowers, wombats, echidnas, and lots of native birdlife.
Illawong Swinging Bridge: The current bridge, the third built on or near this site since 1958, was built by Illawong Ski Tourers in 1971 with assistance from the NPWS. The first bridge, despite being four metres above the river, was washed away by a raging flood.
Look out for: The heritage-listed flying fox near the Guthega end of the track. Originally built by the Illawong Ski Tourers in 1961 and replaced in 1979, it was decommissioned in 2011. Now you cross the creek via a small bridge. Not as much fun but far more practical.
WHERE IN CANBERRA?
Rating: Medium
Clue: Back-to-front
Last week: Congratulations to Toni Hogan of Bonython who was first to identify last week's photo as Jan Green and Dianna Bisset's bunyip-inspired artwork in Orchard St, Taralga. It is one of 10 animal sculptures designed to encourage motorists to be careful while driving through town.
How to enter: Email your guess along with your name and suburb to tym@iinet.net.au. The first correct email sent after 10am, Saturday March 5, 2022, wins a double pass to Dendy, the Home of Quality Cinema.
SPOTTED
The Illawong Lodge near Guthega, which is only accessible to walkers or skiers, is usually locked up. However, there is a well-marked crawl space beneath the building available to anyone in distress. Members of the Illawong Ski Tourers who manage the lodge ensure that the shelter is kept clean and provisioned with blankets and some basic food stuffs. The Kosciuszko Huts Association website reports: "It is lined and would be comfortable and safe in a blizzard" and that "a shovel for snow is kept beside the front door."
I've never been in this emergency crawl space, even to check it out in summer, but good friend of this column, High Country hut authority Klaus Hueneke, has. And his verdict? "Oh dear, what a bolt hole that is, I don't think I'd want to go back in there again unless I was dying," he reports. "It's like being in a coffin lined with padding". Heck, maybe I won't check it out after all!
More: www.illawong.asn.au
