For the last two nights newsreaders and radio announcers in New Zealand have been ending their broadcasts with the same words: “Go the All Blacks!”.
The first Test of the Lions tour kicks off at Eden Park on Saturday, and for many it feels like the start of the tour, with many British and Irish fans only flying in this week.
“There is a real buzz now, the test match is finally upon us and things are getting serious,” said Adam Gilshnan, the organiser behind the Adopt-a-Lions scheme, which facilitated 1500 New Zealanders offering their spare rooms, gardens and sofa beds to Lions fans.
“Queens Wharf is humming and the bars are packed out, it is starting to dawn on everyone that the competition is on.”
The fan-zone, where many revellers will kick off their night, is spread along Queen’s wharf at Auckland harbourside; a riot of live music, celebrity All Blacks mingling with the crowd and a cacophony of banter between the friendly armies of red and black supporters. Some 25,000 Lions fans are in town for the game, as well as 14,000 Kiwis from other parts of the country.
Around 5pm on Saturday, thousands of people will set off on the 4.2km walk to Eden Park, a route which will take them through the pulsing heart of Auckland central. Past the Korean fast-food joints and fashion chain stores of Queen Street. Past the sex shops and sushi bars of K Road. Along the wide, grey industrial stretch of Great North Road. To Eden Park, which seats 50,000.
Welshman Cai Jones, 24, is travelling New Zealand with his girlfriend. Jones has a campervan - one of 1000 parked in Auckland for the test match. He’ll be among the crowd walking to Eden Park on Saturday. The Metservice has predicted light rain, a south-westerly wind and temperatures in the low teens. Hot coffee will be available for free.
“It has been a rough time at home, and we have been feeling really far from home,” says Jones.
“But it hasn’t dampened the experience here, people buy us drinks, give us beds, they’ve really welcomed us. The kindness of Kiwis has been amazing.”
Daniel Walsh manages O’Hagans bar near the fan zone and said its been a “mad” few days. He’s brought on extra staff and hired outside fridges to stock kegs of English ale for the hundreds of Lions fans who made his pub their home this week.
“The last two or three days has been crazy, we’ve been packed every night, every day, with a great atmosphere, great singalong crowd,” said Walsh, who said Guinness and Irish breakfasts have been the best-sellers.
“New Zealand is the greatest rugby nation on earth and the tour only happens every 12 years, so when it comes around everyone gets involved. It’s not just sports nuts.”
Jonathan Sinclair, the British High Commissioner to New Zealand, has parked his red embassy bus nearby the fan zone, where on Friday he talked to 200 Brits, as well as former All Blacks coach Sir Graham Henry, who popped by for a chat.
Sinclair and his team have been travelling around New Zealand alongside the 25,000 Lions fans, offering mobile consular assistance and advice as needed.
“It’s been a lively day so far ... the atmosphere in Auckland is really building,” he said.
“The Lions fans are the best in the world and are going down a storm. And everyone we have spoken to has stressed how wonderfully they have been received here. You can really feel the excitement building on both sides.”
The All Blacks vs Lions kicks off at Eden park at 7.35pm local time, 5.35pm AEST, 8.35am GMT.
