Nike President Amy Montagne kept a page of quotes from leading women athletes close by in the lead-up to NikeSKIMS’ launch on September 22. Zooming from her office the week before, a miniature of the famed Hellenistic statue depicting Nike, Goddess of Victory, just behind her, Montagne picks one to read to me. “Dina Asher-Smith said, ‘Every day I'm forced to choose between being feminine or feeling strong, but I want both without compromise,’” she recites.
That line might be the NikeSKIMS thesis statement. “It's a reminder as we're going into the launch how excited we are to keep them”—meaning, athletes like Asher-Smith, as well as Sha’Carri Richardson, Jordan Chiles, and Serena Williams, who tested NikeSKIMS in its first campaign—“at the center.”
NikeSKIMS was first announced in February with a cryptic press release and a joint logo combining the two brands. All these months later, it’s finally arriving in select stores and online on September 26, in a neutrally-toned, body-hugging drop of 58 silhouettes in sizes XXS–4XL. The palette of black, burgundy, chocolate brown, and eggplant purple feels like it was directly pasted from SKIMS’ co-founder Kim Kardashian’s closet. The fine print on the textiles—a "Shine" collection with quick-trying fabric, an "Airy" collection of breathable mesh knits—feels Nike-driven.
Bras combine the sportswear brand's DriFit (aka, sweat-proof) fabric with SKIMS’ soft molded cups, in cuts from a triangle reminiscent of SKIMS’ famed “Fits Everybody” bra to a more Pilates Princess-forward double scoop silhouette. There are micro-mini shorts and leggings in three lengths; a sub-collection of “third layer” jerseys and button-up sweatpants to mix, match, and layer on the way to a training session; and one spacious gym duffle.
Combining Nike’s expertise in activewear engineering with SKIMS’ billion-dollar shapewear business was just over a year in the making, Montagne says. But it’s not for the short-term, like SKIMS’ Lake Como link-up with Dolce & Gabbana or Nike’s outings with designers from Martine Rose to Jacquemus.
“Both brands do a lot of collaborations, but this was a whole new partnership of us coming together to create something new,” Montagne says. Several times during our conversation, she refers to the standalone brand as a "new industry standard." NikeSKIMS will be sold on both companies’ sites and in select stores over several seasons; a long-term, not-just-one-drop situation. (Exactly how long, she couldn’t share.)
At a top-secret preview last week—no phones allowed—I walked through collections sorted by their fabrication and fit. As may be expected for a launch involving SKIMS shapewear, “snatched” was the word most often used to describe the fit of shorts and leggings with more compression and visible seams resembling SKIMS underwear. There were a lot of surprising features that balanced looking good with feeling good, too. Some adjustable bras come with padded straps that adjust on the front—no more awkwardly twisting for the right fit. A pair of footie leggings features grippy soles, to solve for leaving Pilates reformer-friendly socks at home. The bras also replace removable padding and digging-in seams with seamless, molded cups. Everything is as breathable and flexible as a typical Nike matching set, but there’s more of a sheen. (Footwear, teased in the initial announcement, wasn’t on display.)
As Montagne sums up the first drop, “We’re redefining this activewear space, a space that really needs it right now.”
She’s not wrong. NikeSKIMS arrives at a moment where the business of outfitting athletes—of the pro and everyday varieties—is in flux. Tight-tight leggings are reportedly “over” for younger generations; big, baggy workout pants are in. Challenger brands (Hoka, On, and so on) are releasing collaborations and recruiting celebrity ambassadors to tiptoe onto the dominant brands’ turf.
Montagne admits there are “a lot of active brands”; this is the only one with rigorous testing by the most discerning athletes. NikeSKIMS hopes to win over closet-share with its blend of photo-friendly aesthetics and top-tier engineering: the same compromise-proof balance from Dina Asher-Smith’s quote. Already, other Nike athletes are sold.
Pro-volleyball player Madisen Skinner says the brand fits her body “perfectly”—a major confidence boost when she’s at practice. “It’s soft and comfortable, helping me perform at my best.”
“To dominate my sport, I need to feel strong and comfortable,” adds Judo World Champion Romane Dicko. She says she finds both in the products she’s tested.
Even more women at the forefront of sport starred in the first NikeSKIMS campaign—over 50, including UCLA and USC athletes—and gave feedback on the lineups they tried. The performance-to-style ratio on display in the ad is “one of the top things we hear in working with athletes,” Montagne says. “Not only do they want to perform great, they want to look great. Fit is something we’re obsessed with, and athletes all have such different bodies from Serena to Sha’Carri.” Casting so many women, from so many sports, is NikeSKIMS’ way of saying it can dress them all.
As NikeSKIMS continues serving new collections, Montagne’s collection of athlete-approved quotes will probably continue to grow. As for everyday athletes (and online fashion commentators) outside the Olympic circuit? All the pieces are in place for scoring more points.
NikeSKIMS will arrive in select Nike and SKIMS stores, and on both brands' websites, on Friday, September 26.
