Elite chooses the best looks and moments from this season's Elle Fashion Week.
Kai
Only the boldest of women can pull of the dresses made by the national artist, Somchai "Kai" Kaewthong, this season. Wowing the crowd with his use of mudmee silk and ethnic fabrics in a contemporary fashion, these gowns are worthy of nothing less than the red carpet and Hollywood-level affairs. With silhouettes that showcase the pattern of the silk in its full glory, while also coming in eye-catching volumes, Kai's dresses ensure an empress-like entrance. As if that weren't enough to stun onlookers, the daring backless detail that is covered only by a thin mesh will retain envious eyes. If there's a state function abroad where you need to bear the I'm-from-Thailand flag, we can think of no better house from which to pick your frills.
Vickteerut presented by Absolut Lime
It is only the second day, but already it feels like this event should have been named "Mai Davika Fashion Week". The actress was in one of the statement dresses of the season: a long-sleeved gown with a satiny train that looked transparent. If you've ever wondered what would happen if Vickteerut went Arabian, this is how it would look: they mix it with a tinge of sportiness and use a lot of pleats. Harem pants are pleated, while hemlines of tops, sleeves and pants are ballooned for that 1,001 Arabian Nights effect. Everything mostly comes in neutral colours of white, black or the brand's favourite, minty green, but there is also that hot fuchsia dress with spaghetti straps that packs a punch.
Landmee
Set against a runway lined with bushes of wild flowers, Landmee immediately takes audiences back to the Victorian era. Inspired by Charles Dickens' Great Expectations, vintage dresses come with the aesthetics of puffy sleeves and baby doll ruffles. Layers of frills deck each piece, but, to save it from being a generic number ladies wear on a day trip to the countryside, charming phrases from Dickens are sewn onto the dresses. Let the dresses do the talking for you, as the words "Love Is Almost Everything", "Almost Love" or "Lonely Heart" are splashed across hems, backs and above pockets.
ASV
There are literally two swanky bars sitting on the runway, complete with bartenders shaking up drinks and offering newspapers. The point being, you can dress any way you want, because it is poise and confidence that make or break that outfit. To embody the spirit of empowerment and that fashion is an extension of yourself, we get Sex And The City vibes, as models strut to the bar in all sorts of outfits. Nothing looks out of place, be it lace skirts, power jumpsuits, stripy summer dresses, shorts paired with a classic suit or gowns with tulle trains. This is, of course, how Carrie always rolled.
Kloset
Taking its girly-girls around the world as it always does, this season Kloset draws inspiration from Turkey. It's not something that hits immediately, but comes in discrete details where Islamic influences are apparent in the fabric embellished with stones, as well as hijabs and abaya silhouettes. Flowers and tulips splash the prints as usual, but there also are patches of faux fur disguised as flower petals on overcoats -- which make for a head-turning winter outfit. Their accessories never disappoint -- check out the sunglasses that have glittery peacock-feather-like motifs dangling from the end pieces.
Everyday Karmakamet
This house has once again created a collection that the cool kids will want to be seen in. Head here for an impressive array of trench coats and fun check prints on suits and blazers for men. It's stunning how everything is oversized yet so well-structured that the end result is polished despite its gigantic volumes. Making the functional fashionable, outfits usually seen on auto mechanics or a common fishing vest are reworked as everyday wear, which means pockets are everywhere. The house provides small but fun details that will make you smile, such as nameplates saying "Perfect", cute tie bars and socks with a rainbow at the back cuff.
Nicha presented by Iceland Spring
This first show of Day 4 goes for a high-voltage impact with its star-studded cast, be it Poyd Treechada, Marsha Vadhanapanich, Bee Namthip, Matt Peranee, Ploy Cherman or Pu Anchalee walking the finale. Drawing from the beauty of animals and nature at nighttime, this "Dark Wonder" collection brings the embroidery of botanic and animal prints onto its staple of sexy and minimal spaghetti-strap dresses. Look no further for jumpsuits, gowns, dresses and tops with the most dangerous of slits, asymmetrical shoulder straps and flaps and trains trailing for a flowing effect. There is nothing for the faint-hearted or wallflowers here.
Fresh Faces
This year, four names grace this debut stage for newcomers in the fashion circuit. It's a first that Takara Wong showcases a collection for women -- bringing its signature of punk through studded belts and red leather jackets paired with prints of riots and fire. The only men's collection, ADI C, uses oversized shoulders, sketches from prison walls and circles as a graphic point of focus, as seen in pockets and knee patches. The newest name, Archive026, goes for a dark kind of whimsy by deconstructing shapes from Alice In Wonderland. Interesting silhouettes include hourglass sleeves and stiff collars like the Queen of Hearts. The last name, Vinn Patararin, stuns with fabrics that have been textured with polka dots to create optical illusions.
Vatanika presented by Citibank
This season sees contrasting characteristics coming together at Vatanika: feminine innocence in the ruffles that deck sleeves and hemlines, while sensuality in the allure of figure-hugging velvet. However, there's always the signature ingredient of masculinity, and this continues in the pinstriped fabrics fashioned into maxi skirts and short dresses. The classy brand usually sticks to white, black and grey, but there is a refreshing pop of mustard yellow for those looking for satin numbers in a more cheerful tone. Going for high drama just like in her reality programme, the show also had big shot Cindy Sirinya and the hot, new generation of models Nathalie Ducheine and Pim Bubear in a mini-skit that closed the show with a naked guy running down the runway.
Mesh Museum
The wedding dresses are nothing short of cinematic, dreamy and ethereal, like the Alfred Hitchcock movies they drew inspiration from. It will make women want to be Hitchcockian heroines or brides themselves, with shimmering embroideries, multilayered tulle or caped suits. There are a handful of unconventional shapes here that we have yet to see at any wedding before, and the finale where Mai Davika walks out under an umbrella casts a whole new way to wear the veil thanks to the movie Psycho.
Contemporary Southern Batik by OCAC
It's hard to envision batik beyond loungewear or something for the beach, but this joint show supported by the Ministry of Culture's Office of Contemporary Art and Culture sheds a new light on these southern fabrics. Three edgy designers, Sarunrat Panchiracharoen of Everyday Karmakamet, T-ra Chantasawasdee and Wishrawish, have been chosen for this project to give a modern spin to fabrics created by villagers from the four southern provinces of Yala, Songkhla, Narathiwat and Pattani. It takes the right vision to bring these fabrics to the streets and to make the wearer look like she's not just returned from the islands. We see collared shirts, mesmerising patchworks of snake skin and marble-patterned batik, and tops speckled with sequins that could easily belong in the front rows of the fashion world. It works.
Mirror Mirror Bangkok
Never underestimate the power of a headpiece. There are countless beautiful and tasteful ones made by this newcomer that really add an extra kick to your wedding wear. We have never heard of this brand before but they are sure to become a favourite for brides wanting to think outside the box. While their combination of princessy bridal gowns and sensational headgear easily impresses, it is their offering of non-white wedding gowns that bring to life how shades of marriage look good in other colours (and shapes) too. There are swimsuits embroidered with sea creatures, should you want to take your nuptials to the beach on a hot summer day. Then there are also dreamy pink tulle dresses or gorgeous deep-blue satin gowns that sparkle with crystal stars.
Painkiller
Painkiller takes us into the wilderness, even though it's a really cool-looking guy (in jeans, a Painkiller sweatshirt and skinny, wire-rimmed glasses) who's hand-drumming beats for models to stomp to. The hiking accessories, army green and earth tones, clearly have their roots in forest rangers, but the collection doesn't just stop at giving a polished spin to camouflage prints. With the schomburgk deer (known in Thai as samun) being the star motif of the collection, there is also a message of activism that calls for wildlife conservation. The samun was believed to be the most beautiful deer in the world and was native to Thailand, but went extinct in 1932. Painkiller reminds us of this animal stylishly by inserting it among the camouflage prints, by using its skeleton structure as a print and by lighting the antlers on fire.
Hook's presented by Honda HR-V
Always the one for theatrical opulence, the last show of this season did not fail to stun, with its immaculate tailoring and creepy dramatics. For this show, designer Prapakas Angsusingha is keen to dish out life lessons through the use of fashion. Tackling issues of materialism, desire, ambition, mortality and various sins, this obviously isn't going to look pretty -- black leather gowns are pierced by gigantic silver arrows, and body suits make the models look like they are wearing bulks of muscles and strains of blood vessels. It's disturbing and hair-raising, but you also marvel at the embroidery and stitching that goes into creating these nightmarish costumes.
