I’m a big fan of overnight trains. The old-school romance of them. Sure they’re expensive and slow, but there’s just something about falling asleep to the clickity-clackity and then waking up in a different city.
After a rather disastrous overnight adventure from Sicily to Rome, I wasn’t looking forward to going from Venice to Vienna two days later. At least our luggage was lighter.
Though Venice is one of its termini, the Nightjet is owned and operated by ÖBB, Austrian Federal Railways. I’d traveled this route once before, in 2014, so we splurged on the Double Deluxe sleeper cabin for this outing. Given how despondent Italy had left my friend and I, I’m glad we did.
What a radical change, not only from the atrocious Italian trains, but even from the last time I rode these rails. Colorful LED lighting, swoopy curved walls, even in our cozy cabin, a toilet and a shower! Now, not every cabin has those, but for a little extra, it’s totally worth it.
On my bunk was a bottle of water, a snack bag of pretzels, soap, towel, and what I think is the smartest touch, some foam earplugs. I doubt most people will need them though, which I’ll get to.
And some wine. OK, maybe that’s the smartest touch.
The bed and linens were clean and comfortable. The bed was a bit firmer than I generally prefer, but it was fine. Once we got moving I was amazed at how quiet the cabin was, especially considering how deafening the Italian train was. Perhaps the strangest thing was the lack of a strap or bar to prevent me from rolling out in the middle of the night. Given how high up the top bunk is, this was surprising.
I was a bit disappointed that, despite the images on the Nightjet website, our cabin didn’t have a sunroof. Plenty of room for one, with an expansive ceiling, but no glass other than the side window. A bit of a bummer. Turns out only certain lines have this.
Perhaps even more shocking, pun intended, was finding only one outlet. One! How, in this day and age, can a new cabin space only have one outlet? What a bizarre and unfortunate choice.
There was one more in the bathroom, but that’s a lot less helpful than more in the room itself.
In two years, they plan on rolling out (another intended pun) a whole new cabin design.
Of the many night trains I’ve taken, this was unquestionably the best. Though when the Caledonian Sleeper gets their new trains next year, I bet they’ll give the Nightjet a run for its money.
Speaking of money, the price really wasn’t that bad, considering all we got. I paid €300, or around $350, for the cabin. So that’s two tickets to Vienna, two beds for the night, and a light breakfast. I honestly doubt flying, plus a hostel/hotel for the night, would have been any cheaper. It definitely wouldn’t have been as pleasant.
For even more info, check out Seat 61’s review or ÖBB’s Nightjet page.
