While the UK as a whole has mostly shaken off its reputation for dreadful food, there’s a perception – particularly in the south of England – that the north-east is still all fish suppers, dodgy takeaways and the titular Brown Ale.
So it’s perhaps one of the north’s few remaining secrets that there’s actually a lot of exciting food being made in Newcastle and neighbouring Gateshead, from high-end Michelin-starred plates to eat-with-your-hands street food – and most things in between.
Like anywhere with a great food culture, NewcastleGateshead has its specialities. Stottie cakes, (flat, round breads) and pease pudding or “geordie hummus” (a puree of boiled yellow split peas) are still dished up in the city’s eateries and are worth a try for anyone wanting a taste of the traditional. Grainger market is a good place to start.
For those seeking something more contemporary, the Boiler Shop Steamer is a fun collection of local food, drink, art and music, held at the Boiler Shop on Sussex Street, the birthplace of Robert Stephenson’s Rocket. When it re-opens this summer, visitors can find a healthy cohort of street food vendors and stalls from city favourites such as burger makers Fat Hippo and artisan bakers Sugar Down Bakery (the people behind the excellent Settle Down Café).
At the end of the food spectrum where the only handheld snack comes from the bread basket, Newcastle also delivers. Kenny Atkinson’s House of Tides holds a Michelin star, with its seasonal menu of great local produce, while SIX at BALTIC offers modern European food complemented by stunning rooftop views of the Tyne and the city’s famous bridges.
Another local food hero is Terry Laybourne, the first chef in the city to win a Michelin star. Laybourne has built up several acclaimed food businesses that take influence from his original 21 Queen Street restaurant, including the area’s finest gastropub: The Broad Chare. This is still very much a pub, with an excellent, regularly changing beer list – but it’s one with a varied menu of things you really want to eat. For a tiny taste try the snack menu, which includes cauliflower fritters, oysters and deep-fried monkfish cheeks.
Curry is also well-represented in the area. Dabbawal is the place to head for new takes on Indian street foods in an extremely trendy setting, while Gateshead’s Angeethi errs on the more traditional side – but is still a top choice for the curry lover.
For something slightly different, head to Cook House. Set in two converted shipping containers, it serves excellent weekday breakfasts and lunches (8:30am to 3:30pm), often made with ingredients from the restaurant’s own kitchen garden. By arrangement only, the house also opens for supper clubs and events run by proprietor and chef Anna Hedworth. It’s as glorious a local gem as you’ll find in the UK, let alone the north-east.
