Even jaded New Yorkers can use a little Vegas pizzazz now and then, and Zavō, founded by Ilya Zavolunov, has some of the same vibe as you might find in one of the casino restaurants in Nevada. At least on weekends, when it changes to a nightclub.
Largely, it is set upstairs for catered affairs, something Zavolunov is known for as owner of the Da Mikele Illagio catering venues in Queens. His family hails from Uzbekistan, moved to Austria and traveled throughout the Eastern Mediterranean to hone skills you see represented on the menu at Zavō.
Lively on weekends, the downstairs dining room can be a bit lonely on weekday nights. We dined at Zavō on a Monday and it was nearly empty. Still, Zavolunov and his staff showed a welcoming flair for service that warmed the evening up considerably.
The room is very spacious, with tables widely separated. Columns of light extend to a tall ceiling, itself set with lights that look like falling comets. Walls are textured in the color of Champagne, and the white bar shimmers with light and is set with flowers. Tables are well set with napery and stemware, and the chairs exceptionally comfortable.
The evening à la carte menu begins with grilled asparagus generously dressed with bacon lardons, a sunny side up egg and a basil pesto ($8), and the chargrilled octopus with hummus, cilantro aïoli and a little mango ($14) succeeds in the way the flavors of the sea and the fruit meld. The crabcake has a commendable amount of jumbo meat, with a romesco sauce and apple-celery slaw, all at a very modest price of $10. The onion rings ($9) are cut thick and cooked golden and crispy, sweet and tangy, with a splash of vodka in the batter and a paprika aioli; and they work as an appetizer for the table.
Complementary flavors of creamy avocado, a soy-lime ponzu and a hint of wasabi bring out the freshness of a tuna tartare ($19). My favorite starter that night was a rich lentil soup ($10), ideal for cold weather, flavored with celery, carrots, fennel and laced with sour cream.
Prices for main courses are not as modest, with pasta $25-$41 (for fettuccine and lobster). But a roasted Mediterranean sea bass at $32 with zucchini, squash, peas and a Fresno pepper vinaigrette was as finely wrought as any I’ve had this season, and lamb chops ($38) were hefty and delicious, served with a butter-rich puree, cippollini, sautéed spinach and the reduced juices from the lamb.
If you are in the mood for a simple chicken dish deftly cooked, I highly recommend the brick-pressed chicken with a nice, crispy skin, fingerling potatoes, string beans, braised fennel and a lovely rosemary jus ($32), again in a generous portion. For a side dish, the roasted Brussels sprouts with toasted almonds ($9) was a good choice.
Desserts were not out of the ordinary but well made, as can be the case with caterers who have so much nightly experience making them. The NewYork style cheesecake ($10), citrus crème brûlée with berries and mint ($10), “Death by Chocolate” cake ($13) and pistachio baklava with apples and pistachio ice cream ($12) were all of good quality.
Wines by the glass ($12-$16) are mostly well known labels, while the wine list has three dozen Champagnes (none bargains), and the Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon and Italian selections are impressive in their depth, though with high mark-ups. For instance, a simple Travaglini Gattinara 2012 sells for about $29 in the store; here it’s $100.
For a quiet night with friends, wives, husbands or business associates, where conversation is highly desirable, Zavo functions well in midtown—it’s just a block from Bloomingdale’s, lunch is fixed at $25.99 —as a good choice. On weekends, it kicks into more of a Vegas vibe.
Open for lunch and dinner daily.
ZAVŌ
1011 3rd Avenue (near 61st Street)
212-753-5500
