A few months ago I wrote in this column that Il Gattopardo, across from the Museum of Modern Art, was currently the finest Italian restaurant in New York. Now, I want to fudge on that claim, not because it has been superseded by another restaurant but because it has its equal at The Leopard at Des Artistes near Lincoln Center. My sophisticated readers will catch on fast that Il Gattorpardo means “leopard” in Italian, so it is no stretch to realize that both restaurants are intimately related by the ownership of Gian-Franco and Paula Sorrentino and have been for some time.
Yet despite their equal excellence the two restaurants are quite dissimilar, especially since The Leopard has a terrific new chef, Jordan Frosolone, while Il Gattopardo’s continues on with the redoubtable Vito Gnazzo, who had previously been the chef at The Leopard. Both men have the command of Italian classic cuisine but with different approaches: Gnazzo’s cooking is proudly Southern, Frosolone’s is resolutely Northern. It makes for an enormous range of dishes between the two of them.
The Leopard is located within the Hôtel des Artistes, whose rich history dates to when it was a residence full of opera singers, musicians and artists, which included Howard Chandler Christy, the man nationally famous for his wholesome “Christy girl” cover art, but in New York also known for his murals of risqué 1930s murals of 36 young women romping in woods that look a lot like Central Park, gaily swinging on vines, dancing rapturously or showering under a waterfall, all of them decidedly in the buff. Those murals are arrayed throughout The Leopard in a beautifully lighted, two-tier dining room that enhances the artwork. Everything else does, too, from the thick linens and various wineglasses on the table to the very comfortable chairs and the space between tables. Service-wise, Sorrentino has a staff of long-time professionals and some youthful ones who make dining here an exercise in genteel hospitality.
The wine list is excellent, built around artisanal wineries, not least in the white wine selections, which include a superb Fiano/Pallagrello 2018 “Polveri della Sgarrupata” Nanni Cope’, a Moscato di Noto “Muscatedda” 2019 Marabino and a Per’è Palummo 2016 “Vigna dei Mille Anni” Casa D’Ambra.
Leaving the menu up to Frosolone, our party of four began with a crisp pecorino and egg croquette ($24) scented with garlic and basil, and a peppery mixed chicory salad ($24) with prosciutto di San Daniele and aged montasio cheese breadcrumbs. Luccio (pike) was marinated in a white wine vinaigrette with fennel and quickly fried capers ($27). Particularly delightful as an antipasto was a creamy tart of baked parmigiano Reggiano with black truffle shavings and arugula ($27). Although served as an appetizer, the quail stuffed with pork sausage with red wine poached figs and crispy sage ($28) could serve as an ample main course.
Then came wholly unusual, generously proportioned pastas: Struncatura multigrain spaghettoni abundant with shrimp, neonata (tiny fried fish) and a squirt of lemon ($32); Mafalde made with chestnut flour was typical of Alto-Adige with mixed mushrooms, glazed chestnuts and aromatic thyme—perfect for autumn ($32); Hefty but delicate gnocchi of potato was tossed with jumbo lump crab meat, scallions and the tang of lemons ($36); and one big ravioli lol was stuffed with beets, poppyseeds, and sauce with brown butter and sage ($30).
Frosolone is expert in rendering the food at exactly the right cooking stage, and the salmerino (seatrout) came roasted with charred scallions, salty trout roe and a splash of balsamic vinegar ($52); scallops were seared and sided with squash purée, a pancetta vinaigrette and a touch of sage ($58).
The Leopard serves a massive grilled veal chop with the addition of tender roasted sweet breads, mushrooms and a rich, heady reduction of marsala wine ($60), while duck breast is roasted pink and served with fall’s chestnuts, pears and spinach (55).
Desserts are quite traditional but also out of the ordinary, so that zabaione al Ramandolowith seasonal fruits ($20); panna cotta with dried figs ($17); a dark chocolate mousse with white chocolate and orange ($17); and a classic mascarpone tiramisù ($17) are all handled with delicacy and finesse.
The gorgeous premises of The Leopard at des Artistes long had a draw beyond the quality of the food in earlier incarnations, but now, with Frosolone at the helm it has become the finest Italian restaurant in the Lincoln Center area and goes head-to-head with its sister restaurant across from MOMA. It all depends on what you want, southern or northern Italian cuisine; you will get both with beauty and grand hospitality along with food you’d need to go to Italy to find.
THE LEOPARD AT DES ARTISTES
1 W 67th St, New York, NY 10023
212- 787-8767
The Leopard at des Artistes is open nightly for dinner.
