New York fashion week: the first shows – in pictures

In an interview this week, Michael Kors claimed that to create “universally ­wearable wares” one needs to make clothes that other people have worn before: “If a look reminds you of Kate Moss at Glastonbury, that’s a good thing. If something makes you think of Ryan O’Neal kissing Ali ­McGraw in Love Story? Great!" Photograph: Richard Drew/AP

Anna Sui's collection featured elasticated sparkly belts, dyed marabou shrugs and patterned jumpsuits, often paired with – just to get a little more retro – 1940s-style tea dresses. It was all just as pretty and girly as Anna Sui always is, but decidedly deja vu. Photograph: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz F

3.1 by Phillip Lim has suffered from what I call The Miu Miu Problem, an ­illness that strikes down once relatively affordable labels and jacks their prices up out of their original ­customers’ range. For next season, this does not look likely to change as his origami-like, two-garments-in-one ­collection – with wispy dresses that folded into elegant pleats at the back, silky shell tops that morphed into capes and waistcoats – is clearly expensive to produce, and not all that wearable for it. Photograph: Chelsea Lauren/Getty Images

Few labels are so associated with a certain time as Diane von Furstenberg. The best pieces were the updated versions of the wrap dress, which was given extra pleating around the waist and pretty much had Michelle Obama’s name sewn on the lapel. Photograph: Frazer Harrison/Getty Images for Mercedes-Benz F

Tory Burch is trying to move forward by looking further than her own wardrobe for inspiration. But her nautical and Gallic collection for next season has been done before by too many other ­designers and as a result it wasn’t as tempting as Burch’s usual preppy style. Photograph: ALLISON JOYCE/REUTERS

For a while, Marc by Marc Jacobs looked stuck in a 1970s rut. But for next season, Jacobs jettisoned the geek chic for a cleaner look, such as solid-coloured, beautiful shift dresses that gathered just at the waist and, most temptingly of all, one-piece bathing suits with a modest frill at the back and – preventing the look from falling into 50s pastiche – a contrast halter-neck. Photograph: Edward James/WireImage

Olivier Theyskens looked happier than he has in years and, to give Theory credit, it has given him a certain amount of leeway, letting him knock out a few ballgowns amid all the black trousers. There were nice Theyskens-twists among the basics, such as the slouchy trousers with extended waistbands, meaning those who want the baggy jean effect can get it without showing one’s pants, Marky Mark-style. Photograph: Randy Brooke/WireImage

Victoria Beckham has ­begun to look beyond her own mirror for her fashion inspiration. This week she debuted her secondary line, Victoria by Victoria Beckham and – brace yourselves, haters – it was ridiculously lovely. Silk-shirt dresses covered in pretty patterns such as cats, moons and clouds; chic two-coloured shifts with detailing such as scalloping and visible seams. Photograph: PR