In New York, it fell to US super-brand Coach to remind us that American spirit is still a very powerful commodity.
With a little help from rock’n’ roll legend Debbie Harry, who gave a surprise performance at yesterday’s showcase with all-female punk rock band The Coathangers, the label’s long-standing British designer Stuart Vevers sought to celebrate some of the greatest pop culture icons in US history.
Among them was the leather jacket, which has come to form the luxury brand’s bread and butter since it was founded almost 80 years ago.
“Coach is America’s house of leather,” Vevers said backstage after the show. He also cited the Blondie lead singer as a constant source of inspiration, adding: “I don’t think she’s ever not been on a Coach moodboard.”
Certainly, the Eighties played a starring role in next season’s collection, with New Wave brights and power shoulders informing many of the looks. Butter-soft leather took centre stage again in the form of snap button-front midi skirts, relaxed culottes and trench coats — modern heritage classics aimed squarely at Coach’s target market of Gen Z tastemakers.
Branded tennis shoes worn with chunky ribbed socks, drainpipe cords and scribble-print sheath dresses also lent the collection an arty, collegiate vibe.
Vevers partnered with the estate of pioneering Brooklyn-born painter and star of the Eighties Downtown New York art scene Jean-Michel Basquiat for future limited edition collector’s items, such as graffiti-print macs and cashmere scarves.
And there were deeper connections to the artist.
“Debbie Harry was actually the first ever person to buy a Basquiat art work,” explained Vevers. “They were friends.” Then Basquiat’s niece Jessica Kelly took a turn on the catwalk, dressed in a long, lightly padded burgundy leather coat and toting a new structured mini box bag daubed with her uncle’s unmistakable brushstrokes.
Scroll through the gallery above for more looks from the show.
