May 19--Formento's, the Randolph Street Italian restaurant inspired by red-sauced classics, is moving south -- to southern Italian cuisine, that is.
New executive chef Stephen Wambach, who stepped in after opening chef Tony Quartaro announced his departure in March, has revealed his plans for a menu overhaul -- think lighter dishes, with plenty of seafood and vegetables, made with olive oil instead of blanketed in heavy sauce.
He'll be working alongside another exciting new hire: Bartender Cristiana DeLucca, most recently on the opening team at Maple Ash, will join Formento's to revamp the cocktails and bring in more aperitivos and digestivos.
Wambach says he's most excited about the restaurant's new wood-fired grill and smoker, which he'll use to cook meat, oysters and whole fish. Look for more shellfish, prawns and big fish like halibut and swordfish. The chef has been teasing some possible new dishes on Instagram, including a dish with tuna crudo, green olive and artichoke.
Desserts will also be made by Wambach, who's planning a lineup of classics like gelatos, sorbets, tiramisu and panna cotta, the last "maybe with lemon verbena."
Why the changes? "Feedback from regulars," says co-owner Phillip Walters. "They asked for a little lighter and brighter, so we warmed it up. We're here to serve the neighborhood."
But a few fan favorites from the former menu aren't going anywhere. "The canestri with Sunday gravy ($23) will stay," Wambach says of the popular dish, a heap of fat pasta shells in tomato pork neck sauce with meatballs and fennel sausage. The chocolate cake ($14) will also stay, with its tempered chocolate glaze and layers of chocolate pudding and hazelnut praline.
Nonna's, the restaurant's sandwich and retail shop next door, will remain unchanged for now, though Wambach may launch a chef's table of sorts there, cooking for four to six guests at the shop's marble table.
The new dishes at Formento's will start rolling out May 23, with "a full transition by the end of summer," Walters says.
Formento's, 925 W. Randolph St., 312-690-7295, www.formentos.com
lchu@chicagotribune.com
Twitter @louisachu
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